As a coffee destination, Seattle is a city with a big reputation. On the one hand, Seattle is the birthplace of Starbucks, that behemoth of all coffee chains, but on the other, Seattle is also home to a sophisticated independent specialty cafe scene. Quite a dichotomy, some might say. But then Seattle is a city which comfortably embraces the creativity and inherent diversity that thinking ‘outside the square’ can bring — two of its most famous children, Jimmy Hendricks & Bill Gates are perhaps testament to that.

Surrounded by lush evergreen forest with the snowy peak of Mount Rainier in the distance, Seattle is a vibrant city in a magnificent setting. Located on Elliott Bay, Seattle was founded by white settlers in the mid 19th century and went on  to become a primary hub for fishing (think Chinook salmon) and logging with a large number of immigrants attracted to the area. By 1910, about one-third of Seattle’s foreign-born residents hailed from Sweden, Norway, Denmark or Finland.
They played a strong role in defining the young city’s identity — a legacy that can still be seen today.

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During its early days it endured many hardships including a major flood, which forced the city to be relocated from Alki Point to its present day location and the ‘Great Fire of 1889′ which caused the destruction of much of the city’s predominantly timber-built structures. But its people were resilient, accustomed to the hardships of a life of physical labour; they set about rebuilding the city under a new ordinance of brick and stone buildings to replace the timber structures. In the year following the fire, the city’s population actually grew with the influx of people helping with the reconstruction. Seattle was soon back in business but it wasn’t until the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897 that Seattle found itself on the national map as a transport and commercial hub. Still somewhat a ‘boom or bust’ city, the blue collars have been largely replaced by white as Seattle has gone on to become one of America’s major economic, cultural and educational centres. Its hard physical labouring heritage bears little resemblance to its modern day industries, with such omnipotent names as Boeing, Microsoft, Amazon.com as well as, of course, Starbucks.

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Like it or loathe it, the great Starbucks has been instrumental in popularising coffee houses as a place to work, rest, meet and hang-out. That ethos is very much a part of the fabric of Seattle. Starbucks opened its first store in the bustling Pike Place Market precinct in 1971 as a wholesale supplier of freshly roasted coffee beans, leaf teas and equipment. It wasn’t until the 1980′s, after Howard Schultz had joined the company , that he returned from a buying trip to Italy with the idea to offer espresso to customers in a cafe-style setting but the idea was not fully supported by the founding owners of Starbucks. Frustrated but not discouraged, Schultz left Starbucks and started his own coffee shop, il Giornale, in 1985. When the original Starbucks management decided to focus on their mentors’  brand, Peets Tea & Coffee, they sold the Starbucks retail unit to Schultz for $3.8 million. Schultz moved quickly to rename Il Giornale with the Starbucks name, and  the rest is the stuff of stock market legend. But we didn’t come to Seattle to expound the history of Starbucks. We were on a quest to seek out the artisan roasters and specialty cafes for which Seattle is renowned but we had one major problem to overcome before we could head off, leaving our incredibly stylish digs at Hotel Andra [see panel below]!

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Eventually dragging ourselves away, it soon became evident that style is an element that pervades Seattle, largely, it would seem, as a result of its European settlers with elements of post-modern European design frequently appearing, for those who know what to look for. Perhaps it’s also this early European influence which has helped shape Seattle’s inherent coffee culture.  As we marched up Olive Way toward our first coffee destination, we hung a left instead of a right and found ourselves in Capitol Hill, on the corner of Denny and East Olive Way. Deciding to check our location, we popped into the cafe on the corner to ask directions. It was to be a serendipitous moment, as we entered Arabica Lounge and immediately felt the desire to stay awhile. Furnished with a casual array of Eames chairs, vintage lounges, carefully arranged Objets d′art and acoustic guitar tunes wafting on the air, it oozed modish repose. Eyeing off a sumptuous slice of chocolate cake, we took the plunge and ordered a coffee and to our delight, it was excellent. Serving the House Blend by Stumptown Coffee Roasters, it was well balanced and sweet with a floral aroma and delicious choc-nut flavours. It wasn’t until we’d had our second espresso that we decided we had better head off before we were completely bewitched and settled in for the day.

Back on course and this time, heading in the right direction, our next coffee stop was the iconic Bauhaus Books and Coffee on East Pine Street. Since it opened in 1993, it’s developed somewhat of a counter-culture following, with the retro faithful coming to immerse themselves in the atmosphere. With its quirky, shambolic decor and floor to ceiling bookshelves lined with a heady array of vintage texts, it’s a place to be yourself; to contemplate, to meet, to work uninterrupted, or of course to read (although these days it’s as likely to be on a computer as it is on paper). The coffee was by local artisan roaster Lighthouse Coffee and whilst not amazing, was very pleasant with notes of chocolate and berry. But it’s as a cafe destination that Bauhaus makes its mark — it’s uniquely individual and well worth a visit; you’ll probably find yourself walking out with one of their really cool t-shirts, just so you can show-off that you’ve been there!

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Feeling like we could squeeze in one more cafe for the day we made our way over to Victrola Roastery & Cafe, one  block over on East Pike Street. As we approached, we were met by an impressive 1920′s converted warehouse, beautifully restored to house their roastery, training facility, cupping room and showcase cafe. The space inside was light and airy with expansive windows, exposed brick walls and a clear view into the roasting room. It epitomised the post-modernist philosophy of form and function with industrial elements influencing the design of the space. The post-modern theme is of course integral to the Victrola image, with the stylised 1920′s phonograph as their logo together with coffee blends such as Streamline Espresso, Empire Blend and their Deco Decaf. We were served the Stremline blend which had a luscious caramel aroma with juicy berry flavours ahead of toasted hazelnuts and dark chocolate with a smooth buttery mouth-feel. It was a fantastic way to end our coffee explorations for the day.

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We couldn’t help but feel we’d been on a stylish caffeine time-warp, with each of the cafes we visited capturing an aesthetic element of post-modern style and working it into their cafe space with incredible finesse.

As we went off in search of liquids of a different genre, we were to soon realise that coffee isn’t the only beverage that Seattle is passionate about with possibly more independent boutique beer brewers than any other city on the planet. If you’re short for time, you can head downtown to the Tap House Grill – what it lacks in atmosphere it makes up for in beer, with 160 beers on tap from all over the globe! Each with its own pull-handle, they line the long wall at the rear of the bar in an impressive display – order a selection of 6 sampler glasses to get into the spirit. For a more authentic Seattle ‘exbeerience’ we suggest you head to the little bar at the back of the Athenian Seafood Restaurant in the Pike Place Market. Famous for its ice-encrusted beer mugs, it’s a local haunt and  a great way to enjoy a seriously cold local brew.

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Next morning we awoke to a serious downpour with the forecast to be much the same for the remainder of the day, but that wasn’t about to dampen our spirits as we’d arranged an audience with royalty, coffee-royalty that is. David Schomer, world-renowned coffee luminary and another of Seattle’s eminent children, had invited us to meet with him for a coffee at Vivace Espresso Bar, his legendary East Broadway Ave cafe. As we entered, we were met by a busy congregation of coffee faithful, patiently awaiting their morning ritual served up from one of the three Synesso espresso machines on the counter. In fact, a chalk board sign above the counter implored you to look upon your coffee as a transcendent experience and savour it standing at the bar before its fragile flavours dissipate, such is the passion of the Master. The cafe itself is spacious with a very relaxed atmosphere. Its signature Italian style stand-up bar is tempered by plenty of small tables and chairs for those wishing to hang out a while. Dominating the space is a huge original artwork, ‘An Italian in Algiers’ by eclectic artist Kurt Wenner, which Schomer commissioned expressly for the cafe. David has contributed significantly to the pursuit of coffee perfection; for him, it’s an art-form in itself. He had just been cupping a new blend and we were fortunate enough to have David make us an espresso. The coffee was sweet and full -bodied with subtle floral notes and delicate berry flavours – a defining highlight of the trip, I wished I’d had the gumption to ask if he’d make us another!

With the threat of any further coffee destinations paling into insignificance we decided to put one more essential stop into our Seattle coffee quest, the famed Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Whilst not originally hailing from Seattle, it set up operations here in 2007, in addition to its Portland home base and has been accepted into the fold, for very good reason. Their cafe on 12 Ave is stunning with a Kees Van de Westen ‘Mirage‘ on the counter and a Poul Henningsen light shade hanging from the ceiling, it was clear we had entered a space dedicated, not only to coffee, but to coffee in style. As the rain continued to pour down outside, we were very happy to settle in and watch the rain drops cascade down the expansive windows as we sipped on yet another excellent coffee. Their house blend was a Latin American and East African blend with a nutty fragrance and smooth milk chocolate flavours; easy on the palate with a sweet finish.

Cafes are an integral part of life in Seattle with a true symbiosis between its people and its cafes. Cafes always provide a space to meet and talk but most notable in Seattle were the number of people purposefully seated alone, deeply engaged with their computer or working with papers strewn across a table top. There was no presumption, by either the cafe nor the people occupying its seats, of staying only for the time it took to consume food and drink. The cafe is considered an extension of the home or the office; a space for study, work, relaxation, even solitude amongst the buzz of others coming and going. And with that, the cafes shares in the sense of community, more than a business, it’s a way of life.

Given only two days to explore Seattle’s cafe offerings, we were feeling cheated as we returned downtown to grab a bite to eat before packing our bags in readiness for our departure. There was so much more to see, do and experience and we hadn’t nearly scraped the surface of the city’s coffee offerings. But we did feel that, in our short time, we’d experienced the essence of Seattle’s coffee culture. There was only one solution, we’d have to come back — it’s a city where you don’t have to go in search of a good coffee, it finds you and yes, it’s served with defining style.
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Writer and Photographer stayed at Hotel Andra

Stylish, urban and sophisticated, Hotel Andra’s design celebrates the strong elements of the Northwest – water, woods and stone – along with a Scandinavian design influence. Entering the hotel’s living room, guests are greeted by distressed plank floors with hand-knotted wool rugs, warm walls, and rich brown woods. Relax in style in one of the hot orange Arne Jacobsen ‘Swan’ chairs or let the cares of the day melt away as you sit by the magnificent fireplace, made of local split-grain granite, with floor to ceiling golden maple bookcases on either side.

The 119 guestrooms and suites are decorated in warm tones set-off with striking alpaca wool headboards, and warm minimalist dark wood furniture.  The bathrooms are Icelandic blue with FACE Stockholm bath products to complete the indulgence.
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Hotel Andra
2000 Fourth Avenue, Seattle  WA 98121
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We have recently concluded a coffee-hopping trip [including the erstwhile capital of modern world espresso - Seattle] and we now firmly believe that Melbourne takes its place – not just as Australia’s but pretty much the world’s, coffee capital – and as you’ve probably guessed, we don’t make that sort of statement lightly!

However, coffee has got to such a stage in Melbourne, that there may not be much further you can go with espresso. The ‘third wave’ in coffee has seen more emphasis on brewing with different methods – syphon, pour-over, chemex, french press and clover – to the extent that some roasts are optimised for these brewing methods & may actually not be quite so good for espresso… a quandary that probably no other city in Australia may be experiencing.

This leads us to a second point, this review was done on the basis of espresso coffee. Many of Melbourne’s top cafes & espresso bars are actively experimenting with the delicate intricacies of single origin coffees, which can be best explored by non-espresso brewing methods – syphon being foremost amongst these – hence perhaps, the absence of a couple of the better known ‘big names’ in this review… of course, the ultimate is both – great choice in syphon and the perfect espresso!!

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1. Proud Mary
172 Oxford Street
Collingwood

Still relatively new on the scene, and rated no. 5 in our Best Cafes of Melbourne last year, Nolan Hirte and the team at Proud Mary have continued to push the boundaries and the results are stunning. With their custom-made, 6-group Synesso purring like a stretch-limo on the counter, Proud Mary is full-throttle coffee at its very best. Now roasting off-site, they offer their own blends (in addition to 5 Senses) and single origins available from the Synesso but for the more fastidious coffee-connoisseur, or
those wanting to audition their taste-buds, Nolan also roasts more exclusive coffees especially for the syphon bar, clover and other slow brew methods.

Whilst one of the earliest protagonists of the 3rd wave, Nolan continues to maintain a strong focus on offering single origins and blends optimised for espresso as well as exploring nuanced roasting for alternative brewing. The Kenyan ‘Gethumbwini’ Peaberry was the show-stopper with a luscious citrus acidity, blackcurrant notes and a creamy mouthfeel… distinctive and delicious.

When it comes to commitment in everything they do and an enthusiasm to share their knowledge, Proud Mary gets the number 1 podium spot from us and exceeds the already lofty benchmark for coffee excellence in Melbourne.

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2. Dukes Coffee Roasters
169 Chapel Street
Windsor

There is a certain element of fate when it comes to opening up a new business, especially a cafe in the already over-caffeinated Melbourne. For owner Peter Frangoulis, Dukes is one of those places that was simply ‘meant to be’; originally the cafe was to be located at the Duke and Orr dock at South Wharf, giving rise to the name ‘Dukes’. Although securing the location fell through, Peter had already become attached to the name and so, launching forth in search of premises, as fate would have it they landed in Windsor, up the road from the Duke of Windsor Hotel and across the road from Duke Street.

Using only single estate or co-op beans, roasting is in-house with a 15kg Joper. They also roast smaller batches (on a US Roaster Corp 1lb sample roaster) which are used for filter coffees, Syphon and French Press. Their house espresso maintains a base of Brazilian natural processed coffee; when we visited it was blended with a high grade Kenyan, a single estate El Salvador and an Indonesian from Aceh – with a deliciously sweet choc-nut flavour and notes of caramel and spice, it packed a punch with a creamy finish leaving us wanting more; the Ethiopian Guji offered the aroma of jellybeans that gave way to flavours of tropical fruit and apricot acidity. The name was perhaps an omen – that it was meant to be – that was 2 years ago and today Dukes Coffee Roasters is a buzzing showcase of great coffee.

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3. Axil Coffee Roasters
322 Burwood Road
Hawthorn

In botanical terms, the axil of a plant is the point at which a leaf or stem springs out of the branch from which it grows. Perhaps, this also symbolises David Makin’s development and growth from the fold that is the Melbourne coffee scene. David (ex Australian Barista Champion and silver medalist in the 2008 World Barista Championships) along with his partner Zoe Delany, also a noted barista, have recently opened a showcase cafe at the roastery site on busy Burwood Road in Hawthorn.

Not one for hiding his light under the metaphorical bushel, David is often the one to greet you as you enter the cavernous warehouse cafe space – it’s bold, vast and strikingly decorated in black, definitely a statement by design. The botanical reference continues as the spacious seating area is separated from the ordering counter by a suspended trestle holding terracotta potted ferns. The single origin Tanzanian impressed the most – offering aromas of marzipan and almond, there was citrus acidity on first sip, with a delicious creamy mid-palate, good acidity at back of mouth and a nice silky finish. This is a hot house for coffee excellence and they demonstrate their passion for espresso with outstanding coffee and great service, and their almost
unheard-of leap directly to no. 3 position in Melbourne’s Best Cafes.

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4. Dead Man Espresso
35 Market Street
South Melbourne

Warm and inviting, with large windows and a stylish timber decor, this funky cafe seems somewhat at odds with its name. ‘Dead Man’ I’m told, is a reference to the gold rush times of the 1850’s when this area of South Melbourne was a dangerous place with men being murdered for their spoils. It is perhaps a reflection of the current dynamism of the Melbourne coffee scene that these guys, having only been open a little over a year, have already lost their tag of ‘new kids on the block’. With a little help from their friends [including chef Nitish Kissoondhery], owners Luke Mutton and his wife Kylie Mackinlay are using their considerable collective experience and putting it into a well crafted combination of food, ambience and of course, coffee.

Both former baristi, they have maintained a close association with Mark Dundon from St Ali days, so it’s not surprising that the coffee here is roasted by Seven Seeds. At the time of our visit, their house blend was comprised of Brazilian Fazenda Do Sertao pulped natural yellow bourbon, Fazenda Ambiental natural bourbon and a Colombian microlot Los Idaos – lovely almond tones with a caramel sweetness and a long chocolate finish.

We’d say it’s ‘to die for’ but we suspect they may be hoping you want to come back!

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5. Monk Bodhi Dharma
202 Carlisle Street
Balaclava

By repute, Bodhi Dharma was a Buddhist monk who lived during the 5th/6th century and is traditionally credited as the leading patriarch and transmitter of Zen, and if it wasn’t for the banging tunes coming from the Bose speakers you could be forgiven
for thinking that you’d entered into a temple – the contented cogniscenti happily gaze into their lattes, quietly contemplating the ‘god shot’ required to produce such an ethereal beverage.

Dark timbers and cosy tables further reinforce this image, as do the long haired, bearded baristi, circling silently behind the coffee machines – who are surely the prophets of the modern era. Certainly, it almost takes a pilgrimage just to find the place, hidden away as it is among the confines of a disused alley, but the faithful few are rewarded for their efforts with superbly crafted coffee, roasted mostly in-house.

We tried the Nicaruagan Cup of Excellence offering a nose of roasted figs, the palate syrupy with lemon and sour cherry flavours predominating. The house blend was rich and creamy with a nose of almonds, dates and sweet flavours of sticky date pudding on the palate. Zen and the art of coffee roasting.

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Our sincere thanks to our judges: Andreas Martinu, Patrick Sloane, Kris Wood & Mel Caia; for more on methodology & judges’ backgrounds go to the Forum

Cafe Customers – is your favourite local cafe participating? If not, ask them why they haven’t signed up yet? For a list of participating cafes visit the StreetSmart website www.streetsmartaustralia.org/findcafe

Cafe Owners – Why sign up your cafe? For lots of good reasons, for example …..

• you’ll be helping people who desperately need your support

• it’s local – your donations will support people in your suburb or region

• you’ll be helping to tackle homelessness and build stronger communities

• it’s a unique activity– something to talk about and connect to with your customers and staff

• it brings in potential customers to familiarise themselves thereby encouraging repeat business

• your business will be promoted through partner databases, media and PR coverage

• what goes around…. comes around – feel the karma!

Go on – this is important – go to www.streetsmartaustralia.org/cafesmart_signup and get involved

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Actors, and artists, writers and publishers, dancers and designers are just some of the seething mass of humanity that makes up the Biggest Apple… New York City.  Some are born and bred there but most come with a dream: success, a bright and beautiful future and creative expression found nowhere else on the planet. They work, they study, they play… and they do it en masse in the midst of their beloved city.  New Yorkers are out and about.  They’re creative, they’re gregarious and they engage.

Life is lived on the streets, in the bars, at the parks or just about anywhere that’s open for business.  New York’s cafes provide a space integral to the city’s inhabitants. With so many of today’s people working from laptops or freelancing, the city’s cafes are not only a social space, but have metamorphosed into portable offices and meeting rooms, embracing the idea with Wifi, networking events and offering free publicity to their customers’ burgeoning small businesses. Cafes themselves are occupying an important place in today’s community as our social framework moves into uncharted territory. Nowhere is this seen more clearly than on an island that was purchased only a few hundred years ago for just twenty dollars.

As a city, New York divides itself into neighbourhoods, microcosms of a greater whole where the locals appear like members of a tribe, each with their own unspoken rules of dress, attitude and lifestyle. Wander through a neighbourhood and you’ll soon get a feel for its culture.  Spend time in the cafes and you’ll pick up the local nuances as you watch the lives of the locals unfold. Visit the same cafe more than twice and you’ll become a local, greeted when you enter, your particular quirky coffee request already on its way with nods and smiles from the tribe as they break from their laptops, books or friends just long enough to say “Hi, how’r ya doin?” and make you feel you’ve come to the right place… you’re at home.

By far the best introduction to the Big Apple is to wander through Greenwich Village. Over the past 100 years it has attracted a colourful mix of New York’s finest. First the Italian immigrants came, then the century’s early artists and writers arrived, creating the area’s bohemian feel, followed by birth of the Gay movement, traced all the way back to the 40s, their equal rights fight culminating here with the Stonewall Riots of 1969. The Swinging 60s also brought artists such as Jack Kerouac and Allan Ginsberg who made the area their home and workspace.

The locals almost never call it Greenwich Village, preferring to divide their territory into two distinct sections. The “West Village” is a tree-lined, meandering collection of quiet upscale streets bordered by Houston, the Hudson River and 6^th Ave. It bears no resemblance to the grid patterns of the rest of the city thanks to its own history as a set of horse paths for the wealthy. Here you’ll find small boutiques, quaint restaurants and the bars and cafes where the local literati come to work and play. Way too expensive for today’s hopefuls, the quarter has gentrified into a bohemian-chic enclave, but is still a must for those on the cafe trail.

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Grounded was my first stop, hidden away in an odd street sporting low-rise apartments, warehouses and even a public car park, I couldn’t miss it with its big round sign, park bench outside and the delicious aroma of freshly ground beans.  Inside was an oasis, a former carriage-house filled with light, thanks to a huge central skylight. The peeling cement floor, exposed airconditioning and bare walls gave a definite no-frills downtown vibe. Add potted palms, grungy sofas and a huge communal coffee table and you’ve got a cosily scruffy feel that the locals love. Laptop workers gravitate to the rear tables where it’s quiet and an in-house library creates community amongst the locals who donate their used books. Grounded was created by a brother and sister act, two cafe regulars from Cincinnati, who felt that New York was lacking in decent coffeehouses. They decided to open a neighbourhood place that would offer both good coffee and a friendly space to loiter in.  Everything is organic, from the food to the daily milk supply, to their coffee beans which come from Portland Roasting Company in Oregon, an environmentally conscious micro-roaster using organic and often “shade-grown, farm friendly” specialty beans. Their espresso has a slightly sweet ‘berry’ finish, making it a delicious tipple.

“The Village” proper is further east, bounded by Houston and 6^th Ave and ending around Broadway before it blends into the East Village. This is a more touristy area with rows of blues bars, Irish bars and student bars interspersed with NYU digs, cheap restaurants and Korean food-marts. The only place here worth visiting is Cafe Reggio, which opened on MacDougal Street in 1927 and has operated in the same spot continuously ever since. The oldest of the original Italian coffeehouses of the area, it’s the only one still standing and was a favourite with Kerouac. Even today, it maintains its classic Italian edge with wrought-iron tables and chairs, a selection of cakes and pastries to die for, and those tiny, Italian espressos rarely found outside Italy… and Australia!

Moving across Broadway, you’ll enter the East Village, famous for its anarchic, grungy vibe. Bordered by 3^rd Ave, 14^th St and Houston and stretching across to the alphabet avenues, today, it’s a thriving, multi-cultural village of hip, inexpensive eateries, boutiques and, of course, cafes. But it wasn’t always so. Back in the 60’s the likes of Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground cut their teeth playing around the anti-establishment East Village bars. The 70’s brought the punk rock counterculture, still visible in the iconic Trash’n Vaudeville vintage clothing store, and the 80’s saw local galleries supporting graffiti artists like Keith Haring and Jeff Koons. Grunge and punk is still apparent, and although the area is now a tamer place, with tourists outnumbering the anarchists, it still seethes around the clock like the human bazaar that it is.

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The best cafe near the heart of the East Village is Mudspot, a long, thin, orange space on East 9^th St, between 2^nd and 1^st Avenues. It’s likely your barista will be covered in an artwork of tattoos, the odd piercing or five and topped off with a head of honey blonde dreadlocks.  Get used to sipping your latte to the sounds of the latest grunge rock but if that’s a tad too much, keep going through to the tiny outdoor garden at the back where the music isn’t quite so intense. Anti-establishment is alive and well here and proud to uphold the tradition. The coffee’s pretty good too.

Wandering east along 9^th St through Alphabet City brings you to a more laid back residential neighbourhood complete with community garden centres proudly displaying their urban sculptures and tiny independent boutiques, forced away from the melee by its exorbitant rents. This is where coffee aficionados come to savour the famous elixir of the 9^th St Espresso Bar. Voted best espresso outside of Seattle, this nondescript little bar has a big reputation and is widely considered to be the first real espresso cafe of the new wave to take off in New York. The philosophy is to do coffee very well and to that end other offerings have been pared back until, at my visit, there was almost no food at all.  But the coffee is good… it’s what they do.

The owner of 9^th St Espresso got his influence from childhood visits to the Hungarian Pastry Shop on the Upper West Side. Sitting on Amsterdam Ave at 110^th St since 1961, this charming cafe appears at the same time derelict, antiquated and intriguingly irresistible. Its interior is dark, cavernous and hot.  On a summer’s day there’s no air conditioning, just a few floor fans but this seems to only add to the atmosphere.  The place is busy but still manages to feel intimate and the clientele clearly represents the local neighbourhood: students on laptops, older students writing longhand or huddled over thick texts; a few elderly European-looking ladies, the odd intellectual perusing the New York Times and of course a few foreigners who’ve heard that it’s not to be missed. The coffee is abundant and pretty good using quality Columbia beans for the espressos, but you really go there for the amazing array of pastries. Strudels in all shapes and flavours, including the true Hungarian Sour Cherry Strudel, come fresh every morning. It’s a family business with two daughters working on the floor so no chance it will be closing down anytime soon, although their sometimes gruff approach did remind me of utilitarian Eastern Europe, pre-Perestroika.

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Back downtown to Grammercy Park finds a quaint, neighbourhood cafe in the basement at 71 Irving Place. Simply named 71 Irving, it’s busy and buzzing. The clientele are New Yorkers, no tourists here, and they’re the local 20 and 30-somethings: hip, professional and very social. Reflecting the neighbourhood, it’s a place where friends meet to catch up, compare contracts (lot’s of actors here), do lunch and enjoy both great coffee and great food. The style is colonial American with slat-board walls, atmospheric lamps and even a fireplace giving a cosy but elegant feel. Along one wall there’s a staircase leading up…. to the ceiling. It was featured in the classic movie, The Seven Year Itch, with Marilyn Monroe, who exclaims “Where do they go? No place? A stairway to nowhere… that’s elegant.”

The owners, not happy with the coffee they found in New York, bought a farm upstate and now provide their own beans, Irving Farm, not only to their cafe but to such gourmet institutions as Wholefoods, Dean & Deluca, Gourmet Garage and Petrossian.

Venturing out of Manhattan I headed for Brooklyn, lured by the promise of a unique and exquisite cafe out in Park Slope; 30mins later and still on the subway, I knew I was in Brooklyn and was seriously questioning the likelihood of there being anything unique and exquisite this far from the epicentre. At Grand Army Plaza, I escaped the subway system and was instantly mesmerized by the most perfect brownstone houses I have ever seen. Unique to the USA, this architectural style is reminiscent of a bygone era of stately urban homes exuding elegance and style. Encouraged, I persevered and eventually disappeared through a pair of non-descript doors. I thought I had died and gone to heaven.

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The Tea Lounge is a massive warehouse space complete with the ubiquitous chipped concrete floors and open-face brick walls, with exposed air-conditioning pipes disguised under a thin coat of blue paint. Similar to a loft living space, areas are marked out by the furniture arrangement. Communal picnic tables in a well-lit area are for those working in groups and a Moroccan-style sofa extending the length of one wall caters for those working in solitude.  The centre armchairs, sofas and coffee tables are arranged to create living rooms, conversation corners and desks where people can settle in and feel at home. The decor is op-shop grunge meets student digs, with the occasional shot of Baroque opulence.  A row of Indonesian rattan fans high on the ceiling sway back and forth, gracefully synchronized though not moving fast enough to create any breeze. They only add to the eccentric mish-mash that makes Tea Lounge so irrestistible. The coffee is seriously good and the chalkboard menu of delights leaves one almost unable to choose. I went for the Shot Chocolate, which as you can imagine, is a shot of espresso dumped into a seriously indulgent hot chocolate, and then topped it off with a homemade Strawberry Shortcake.  Tea Lounge offers an array of sweet things, all made locally and delivered each morning to their loyal tribe.

Further along the bar, I noticed a chalkboard offering of wines and a tiny dinner menu. One need never leave… just wander further down the bar from breakfast to lunch and then onto dinner. How perfect – a tea lounge for all occasions!

New York has always marched to the beat of a more exotic drum than the rest of the US.  Finally embracing the onslaught of Seattle-inspired espresso bars, its ’take’ on these remains unique and edgy, just like the city itself. As I sank into my plush, emerald Louis armchair and sipped my Shot Choc I couldn’t help but think the world was all the better for it…

My love affair with eating chillies is something that has developed over a number of years; I simply can’t resist the sensation of a good hot chilli! I love exploring the various levels of heat and the subtle unique flavours that individual chillies have such as the ‘Guajillo’, which has a red berry flavour and the’ Ancho’ with its smokey dried fruit notes. This fascination for chillies has evolved into a deep appreciation for Mexican cuisine. I have also come to value that there is more to the country than tequila and tacos, Mexico also grows some pretty good coffee too.

Mexico’s coffee history dates back to the late 1700’s with the introduction of coffee to the Antilles by the French however, it really didn’t take off until late into the 19th century. Mexico sits in at number 7 in the top 10 coffee producing nations and the second largest behind Colombia in Central America. The concentration of coffee production is in the southern regions of Mexico growing Arabica varieties such as Catuai, Caturra, Bourbon and Typica. In the low lying plantations they are commonly producing relatively average blend filler coffees’, but as the plantations start to climb the mountains the quality really starts to appear. A lot of the production efforts in Mexico are focused on organic certification and Fair trade in order to boost their position in the market. Mexican coffees take a lot of cupping to find the really good ones so be sure to look out for coffee coming out of regions like Oaxaca, Coatepec and Chiapas as well as its grading – HG (high grown) or Altura means it’s the highest grown coffee to come out of Mexico.

I’m a big fan of much of the coffee that comes out of the Soconusco region in the southern state of Chiapas that boarders Guatemala (I do like Guatemalan coffee so that’s probably why I favour anything that is coming from this region) however, the coffee is becoming harder to find. In October 2005 the region got slammed hard by Hurricane Stan which damaged many of the crops that where close to harvest and recent reports are now suggesting that this years crop will be the worst yield in 20 years due to bad weather and severe labour shortages.

Whenever I get a washed high grown coffee in from the Americas I always have a tendency to roast them on the light side so you really get to experience the delicate fruit notes and brightness that sets them apart from one another

The dry fragrance has an intoxicating toffee note, with a hint of red apple. Wet aroma is hazelnut and honey-vanilla. The cup has a mild and delicate acidity of peach and apricot and I find a little sugar cane sweetness at the end. The body is smooth but a little thin and quick off the palate which makes it perfect for a single origin espresso. Amazing in syphons and pour over units as these make the stone fruit notes come to life. I would not dare attempt blending this coffee as it is far too delicate and would get lost, but I suggest you just grab a block of 85% cocoa chocolate and sip on a double ristretto.

The Coffee
Location: Chiapas, Mexico
Altitude: 1500 meters +
Plant type: Typica, Caturra

Cup Profile
Fragrance/Aroma: Hazelnut, honey and vanilla
Flavour: Stone fruits
Aftertaste: Sweet and short
Acidity: Mild
Body: Smooth and thin

The original De Clieu was a french naval officer who is celebrated for his claim to have introduced coffee to the French colonies of the Western Hemisphere in the 1720s. According to l’Année littéraire of 1774, he arranged to transport a coffee plant (or perhaps several) from the greenhouses of the Jardin Royal des Plantes [which had originally been given to the French King from Holland] to Martinique in 1720.

The story goes that water was rationed on the voyage and De Clieu was so dedicated to his mission that he shared his ration with the seedlings. The story may be apocryphal, but most sources do in fact credit De Clieu with the introduction of coffee to Martinique & thence the Caribbean.

But enough of history – De Clieu is a funky spot where everyone seems to hang out in black jeans [& black jackets, shoes or whatever] but this belies its class – it’s trendy, but it also serves good coffee and very good food.

The menu reveals an elegant simplicity as would be expected from the kitchen of Steven Carr (previously of the Healesville Hotel) and offers a slightly exotic take on otherwise prosaic items – our Pork Neck Roti [sweet roasted pork neck on a spring onion roti, with a fried egg and hoisin-flavoured BBQ sauce] was exquisite.

And the coffee – we had one shot which was excellent and one which was [only] good, which given the general state of espresso coffee, is still very good overall! Definitely recommended.

De Clieu
187 Gertrude Street
Fitzroy
(03) 9416 4661

By Paul Golding

The first visit to a favourite origin is always something of a personal epiphany. Kenya was one such visit for me, when I went with a small industry group to Nairobi in February this year to catch the end of the harvest season. Getting out into the countryside to see the crop and meet the people who produce it can really help shed some light on a coffee’s unique flavour and character.

Our guide on this adventure was Justin Archer of Sangana Commodities, one of the larger exporters in Kenya. He would be hosting us over 2 days, showing us everything from the farms and mills to the auction room and huge shipping warehouses from which the beans are dispatched around the world. I had also heard about a very interesting training project Justin had set up among the small farmer co-ops, and was keen to learn what it was all about….

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Leaving Nairobi to the north, the transition into coffee country is startlingly quick. Arabica trees appeared on the sides of the road within 40 minutes of leaving our meeting place in the CBD. We were soon passing farms ranging in size from one hectare to the occasional large estate of several hundred hectares.

Kenya does boast some huge estates, like the giant Socfinaf and Thika properties, but the majority of the coffee comes from small holders, family operations who produce anything from a few bags to a few tons each year. These small operators often join with neighbours to form co-operative groups, pooling their money and resources to build a washing station they can all share at harvest time. Our first stop was one such station, owned by the Ritho Co-Op, members of Justin’s farmer training project. The president of the co-op showed us around the rustic mill and explained the techniques they used. While the station had the usual array of equipment found in most similar sites around the world, the Kenyans have adopted a twist on the normal method of washing coffee. After pulping the cherries with a disc pulper, the coffee is “dry fermented” (meaning piled wet but not submerged) for 15-20 hours, then rinsed off before undergoing a second period, this time immersed in water for a further 12-24 hours.

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We speculated that this process could be a key factor in delivering the citrusy and blackberry flavours typical of Kenya. Their future outlook is optimistic, with improvement work planned for the next 8 months which will culminate in UTZ certification [see Crema Summer 2010 issue] and hopefully Fairtrade the following year. Much of the work will involve upgrades to the equipment and drying tables, documenting procedures, and upgrades to the water management and waste management of the station, to better protect the local environment. Assisting with the work is Sustainable Management Services (SMS), the sister company of Sangana, whose mission is to represent member farmers and deliver agricultural training programs. The aim of SMS is to help small holders form stable co-op groups and provide training and equipment to help increase crop yields and quality, with a corresponding rise in earnings at sale time. Farmers are organized into a group of 50, who then nominate one member to be the “promoter farmer”. These individuals must be willing to use their farms as open training centres for the rest of the group. The promoter farmer receives advanced agricultural training and a useful kit of tools from the SMS Ag Science staff, which they first implement on their farm, then roll out to the rest of the group.  Promoter farmers work on a volunteer basis for their community, but reap the benefits of the advanced training and improvement to their own business. We visited the farm of David Makina, set in the lush hills around Handege. David was proud to show us the results of his training and hard work. His farm is on a steeply sloping hillside which supports some 500 healthy-looking bourbon Arabica trees. As we walked through the crop, already showing plenty of new fruit ripening towards the July crop, he pointed out the recent improvements. Since the open hillside had no shade tree protection, the land has been terraced to hold nutrients and avoid erosion. Each tree was pruned carefully to about two metres tall for easier harvesting and also pruned into 3 sections of growth. One section would be cut back to the stump every two years, so the tree would always have a high producing mature part, and fresh growth coming through.

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David has also eliminated the need for chemical fertilizer by producing a special compost, a mix of manure, vegetable scraps and plants selected for their nutrient content. Four kilos of this compost per tree during the year – together with the other improvements – is sufficient to boost his production from 5kg of cherry per tree to an astonishing 15kg, giving him a very respectable income at harvest time! Further down the road, we dropped in to the farm of Daniel Sharia, another promoter farmer, who has also adopted many of these measures.

Daniel’s is a shade farm located on a steep terraced slope leading down to a river. He has chosen shade grown coffee for the longer development time of the cherries, which he says produces a deeper and more intense flavour, returning better prices at sale time.  While shade cropping has many benefits, a major risk in Kenya is the greater exposure to CBD, or coffee berry disease. This is a fungal infection resulting from persistent moisture on the fruit while ripening. As the older variety of SL 28 bourbon plants are more susceptible to CBD, farmers are replacing the older trees with the newer resistant hybrid Ruiru 11. On Daniel’s farm this involves grafting the Ruiru plant onto existing rootstock, allowing him a shade plant with natural resistance to the disease, avoiding reliance on chemical fungicide.  Much of Kenya’s crop is now produced by Ruiru 11 for this reason.

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From the farms we headed to the auction rooms, where much of Kenya’s coffee is sold.  Farmers in Kenya have the option of selling direct to an exporter, or through the auction, allowing market forces to dictate price. This year most were choosing the auctions, where prices are very high due to high world demand and the relative scarcity of quality Kenyan coffee. Held each Thursday, the auction is a quiet place, but the pace is fast, with 2-3 lots sold per minute as the traders bid to fill their requirements. Samples of all the lots available have been roasted, cupped and judged the previous week by the various export houses, who may handle over 300 different offerings in this way.

The traders rely completely on these judgments when bidding for the coffee, so the cupper’s talents are very important. Individual offerings of up to 6 tons may be sold as microlots under the estate or co-op name if the quality is superior, generally the large AA or AB screened beans. In addition, traders will be on the lookout for lots the cuppers recommend for blending, to be sold under a trade name chose by the exporter. This is a painstaking process necessary to produce large volumes of high quality green coffee, maintaining a consistent taste profile for roasters to use in their own blends from year to year.  We participated in this process at Sangana’s cupping lab, working our way down the long row of cups with their chief taster Simon, assigning judgments to each lot.  We also tasted a range of the finished blends and microlots available for sale, excited to be selecting our own exclusive coffees for the coming year.   We went on to visit several more exporters during our 2 weeks in country, but remained very impressed by Sangana’s people, commitment to quality and great efforts in the farmer training programs.

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The news for Australian roasters is both good and bad – the quality of Kenyan coffee still looks excellent, and will remain so through the efforts of Kenyan farmers working with people like Justin and his team.  Farmers are receiving excellent prices due to the high demand for their product, and some are gaining at least temporary wealth selling their land to property developers.  On the minus side, Kenyan specialty coffee may become quite scarce in Australia and very expensive during the year; most of the top lots had already been bought up by Europe and North America when we arrived. Get in early or miss out! For me the trip was highly rewarding-to see first hand the complex work behind the scenes, and to understand the process which leads to bags of green beans arriving in our roastery.

For a coffee geek, it’s a priceless experience-can’t wait to write about the next one.

After flawless performances in his first WBC Championships, Australian Barista Champion, Matt Perger won 3rd place in the World Barista Champs 2011, held in Bogota in June.

The final placings were:

2nd Place – Pete Licata, USA

3rd Place – Matt Perger, Australia

4. Javier Garcia, Spain

5. Miki Suzuki, Japan

6. John Gordon, UK

Congratulations to Alejandro, the finalists and all the 2011 competitors.

Although a city with a population of little more than 300,000 Wellington has the cosmopolitan vibrancy of a much larger city. This is, in the main, due to the fact that the CBD of Wellington is principally structured to be accessible by foot and, with a civic policy of discouraging generic malls and outlying shopping precincts, it draws a communal breath into its restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, giving a pulse to its streets and a beat to its heart. Venture out on a Friday or Saturday night and you will be greeted by the buzz of the city’s populace in its myriad of  forms, all congregated around the restaurant and bar precincts of Cuba Street and Courtenay Place.

But there is a deeper, more visceral, if not down-right dangerous side to Wellington which can be easily overlooked. According to Maori tradition, Wellington  was discovered by the Polynesian explorer Kupe and his followers in around the 10th Century. This Maori legend speaks of the volatile nature of the land and its resulting spectacular beauty. Situated on the verge of two of the earth’s unstable tectonic plates, Wellington experiences tremors on a regular basis and its buildings are designed to withstand major seismic events. It is perhaps with this temporal reminder ever present, that Wellingtonians enjoy an attitude for a life well lived!

And so, good food and wine seem to be the norm in this ‘bon vivant’ city. We had come to Wellington with anticipation as its reputation for good coffee had preceded our visit. However, while we have learnt from past experience to be Initially cautious, we were to our delight, far from  disappointed – for as far as cafe life is concerned, there are few cities that offer good coffee at so many establishments in such a concentrated space.

Our cafe crawl began in the uber-cool environs of Cuba Street. Named not after the South American country – although you could be forgiven for thinking this might be the case – but rather in honour of one of the settler ships, the Cuba,  which landed in Wellington Harbour in 1840. The name however clearly begets the eclectic collection of bohemian cafes, shops, boutiques and art galleries to be found around this quarter of the city.

One cannot be on Cuba Street without being drawn to Fidel’s Cafe, a bastion for coffee, at the top end of Cuba St. There were certainly no pretensions at Fidel’s, being very laid back, slightly grungy, and very much the scene for the local bohemians.

Linked inextricably and not surprisingly with Havana Coffee Works, one of Wellington’s primary local coffee roasters, the coffee at Fidel’s was fresh and well-made but with a certain punchy flavour and mouth-feel unusual to Sydneysiders. Heading down Cuba street toward the harbour, the buzzy cafe scene continued. One that caught our immediate attention was Plum, which was, on a decidedly cold Wellington afternoon, full enough on the inside to have patrons braving the outside tables. Small but comforting, the interior of Plum was warm and inviting with simple cakes and slices on display and a definite aroma of freshly ground coffee in the air. We managed to score a table inside and once again, the coffee was good, with a freshness and presentation that only comes from a dedicated barista accustomed to serving quality coffee. We learnt that the roaster, Eight-thirty, was a relative new-comer to the city, but once again the brew was potent with the distinct ‘Wellington’ style.

Other offerings on Cuba worth a visit were Ernesto’s and Midnight Espresso. Both part of the Havana Coffee Works stable of cafes, the latter was the first cafe they opened and as its name suggests, is open for coffee into the wee hours of the morning.

Our caffeine needs well and truly satiated for the day, we headed out for dinner to Matterhorn, a stylishly warm and secluded Wellington institution located just off Cuba Street. The meal was definitely pleasing and the service attentive, but the highlight was the wine which was to die for – defying us to forget that this part of New Zealand is also famous for its pinot.

Next morning and a short walk from our digs on Cuba Street, we were assured of a ‘kick-start’ by launching our second day with breakfast at Caffe L’Affare. One of the iconic daytime cafe institutions of Wellington, this place is large and open but with a quirky, cluttered decor that brings a personality to the walls and table spaces. Apart from the innate benefit of roasting their own coffee (the roastery has only recently relocated from the cafe to just a few streets away), Caffe L’Affare is renowned for its all-day breakfast, of which we could definitely vouch for the Eggs Benedict and Avocado Toast! The coffee here was much more of a breakfast style, lighter and more milky, but still with the ubiquitous Wellington caffeine jolt to set you on your way.

Just around the corner on Tory Street, we popped into the cafe which fronts the Havana Coffee Works. Housed in an old faded green art deco building, complete with a restored Buick pickup truck out the front, we could have literally been on the streets of a Havana. Once inside, through the decorative glass etched ‘Havana’ doors, the interior was designed to give the impression of having a coffee ‘on the streets’ of downtown Havana with a stage-like backdrop of building facades reminiscent of the city itself.

It was then on to Customs, situated on the curiously named Ghuznee St. Relatively understated and low-key, Customs is the showcase of Coffee Supreme and boasts Wellington’s only Slayer machine, along with one of the few Clover’s in New Zealand; enough, from a coffee point-of-view to firmly establish its coffee credentials. And Customs didn’t disappoint, with the best coffee of our trip – an espresso with sufficient ‘oomph’ yet delicate enough to reveal the fruit and floral notes of high-quality arabicas.

Our Wellington coffee education began to take shape as we started to understand the strong influences on the coffee palate of this surprising and slightly quirky coffee city.  The inner sanctum of roasters belongs to three main players, each of which has gained the respect which only comes from the passage of time, starting as they did twenty or more years ago.

Indeed the essence of Wellington coffee was set many years ago, when the greater populace were still drinking instant, by the founders of Caffe L’Affare, Havana Coffee Works and Coffee Supreme [a brand which has also taken a foothold in Melbourne].

Jeff Kennedy, Geoff Marsland and Chris Dillon respectively, are the ‘dons’ of the Wellington coffee scene, and to a certain degree, their brands reflect the personalities of their owners. Caffe L’Affare probably boasts the closest to a typical Italian brand, not too bright, not to dark, with its middle-of-the road flavour profile echoing its brand name [the rather utilitarian 'Coffee Business' in Italian].

Havana Coffee Works, with its imagery, logo and roast profile reflecting its link to island-sourced beans [and suggestive of early 70s days of grungy student radicalism] roast relatively dark and with a high proportion of Cuban and Venezualan beans – that give a big-mouth feel without the delicacy of high-grown arabicas] – meaning their blends have an unmistakable ‘punchy’ quality. Coffee Supreme offers flavour profiles more similar to what we have been accustomed to in Australia, with cleaner and brighter flavours, suggestive of arabicas sourced from higher altitudes.

With enough caffeine in our blood stream to convincingly manage the Haka, we decided to cool our heels with a lunch at Cafe Nikau. Situated in the Town Hall precinct, and boasting the sort of the smart and minimalist decor that you would expect of a cafe opposite the Michael Fowler Arts Centre, the food and service were excellent. We tried their signature dish, the oddly named Kedgeree. A pilaf of mildly curried rice with (Nikau’s own) smoked fish, a scatter of boiled egg, parsley and lemon juice, it was amazing and the only disappointment was that when we went back for more the next day (Sunday) they were closed!

Our cafe exploration over, we had just enough time to take in some of the ‘must-see’ sights of this extraordinary little city before heading off to the airport. Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum, is an imposing structure on the harbour foreshore which dares to be ignored. With five floors of displays and interactive exhibitions it is an experience worth taking. A quick trip up to the Mount Victoria lookout to take in a final stunning sweeping view and we were off.

And so we departed ‘the windy city’, without so much as a breath of wind to be felt our entire visit. Without a doubt, Wellington is a destination with a groove like no other in the South Pacific; as cool as a southerly, warm as a northerly, as fresh as an easterly and as unpredictable as a westerly.

By now I guess you have heard the term ‘third wave’ in coffee. It refers to a worldwide movement whereby specialty coffee roasters and boutique cafes are devoting their efforts to exploring the pure flavour of the single origin coffee and it’s something that the coffee industry and its consumers in Australia have embraced. The movement is also about innovation and patience which is seeing brewing systems like the Clover, Siphon and temperature controlled espresso machines such as the Synesso and Slayer becoming commonplace in our cafe strips. We are also seeing the green bean standard raised with access to Cup of Excellence, micro-lots, Rainforest Alliance, Fairtrade and roasters creating direct routes to the farms. One such country I believe has always been able to deliver coffee to the standard we are demanding today is Papua New Guinea.

The coffee history in PNG is a rather typical colonial story as it is recorded that in the early 1800’s the Germans where the first to introduce coffee to PNG. Much of their plantations were experimental at best with bits and bobs trickling to Australia for consumption, but by the late 1930s their efforts to capitalize on PNG’s unique growing conditions took off and their reputation as a coffee growing country started to gain momentum.

Much of PNG’s coffee today is grown from large estate plantations or in what is called ‘coffee gardens’. This was an initiative that started in the 1950’s where tiny farms from 20 to 500 trees are run by indigenous families, village-based business groups or individuals that practice organic farming methods. This is all organised by the Coffee Industry Corporation for harvesting, processing and export; amazingly, this accounts for around 70% of the country’s coffee production.
I find for consistency and quality you cannot go past the Carpenters Estate’s Sigri AA (you might have seen the bag with the bright red bird of paradise on it) established in the 1950’s from the typica variety that originates from Jamacia Blue Mountain. It’s located in the Waghi Valley in the Western Highlands and grown at around 1550 meters above sea level and I believe this coffee represents modern Papua New Guinea. The Estate is all about the environment and community, advocating shade grown plantations, wildlife conservation and aiding in schooling and medical facilities. Something I have always loved about this coffee is that it is so consistent – something you should expect with an AA standard. It has a deep jade like appearance, is amazingly even and is practically free of defects. In the cup there is a little fermented fruit on the nose but it’s not a bad thing, the acidity is a little high – similar to a red wine – the body is quite thick, smooth and sweet. I find a little bit of smokey allspice notes along with a floral touch in the finish. Overall it’s a rather bright, sweet cup and I have had this in the Clover, plunger, stove top and as an espresso, and find the intensity in the flavour does not disappoint; as a milk base beverage it highlights the allspice notes making it very sweet and desert-like.

The Coffee
Origin: Papua New Guinea, Sigri AA
Location: Western Highlands
Estate: Carpenters
Plant type: Typica
Process: Washed

Cup Profile
Fragrance/Aroma: Fermented fruit, red wine
Flavour: Smokey allspice, floral
Aftertaste: Clean
Acidity: High
Body: Thick and smooth