While a little noisier than its counterpart and not quite as fast, the dispensing chute was very tidy, ensuring a minimum of mess/waste. Targeted a little more towards the mid-range of the domestic grinder market, the KS performed well and certainly had the power and finesse to grind finely enough to service a high-end domestic espresso machine without any hesitation.

 Our reviewers were impressed by the capacity of this unit to do the job with a minimum of fuss. Even though it’s nudging into the light-weight category, it kept its cool at a maximum grinder blade temp reading of 31°C through pretty rigorous testing. The consistency of grind showed in the resulting shots of espresso being very good with a clean flavour profile.

 VERDICT: a well-performing and stylish domestic unit. Recommended for the home espresso enthusiast for moderate volume.

Height: 38cm
Flat Burr (tempered steel)
Stepped, doserless
Speed of operation: 27.4gm in 30 sec
Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 31°C

 RRP: $599.00 (incl GST) 

We continue to showcase our line up of high-end grinders reviewed late last year and featured in the latest issue of Crema Magazine. Whether you are starting out or planning to up-grade, this review is designed to highlight the features and functions that you should be taking into consideration. 

VERDICT: A performance unit for the home espresso enthusiast, at a competitive price. Recommended for the serious home user who needs a grinder to handle moderate to high volume. Also low volume commercial use (ie back-up/decaf grinder)

Height: 49cm (42cm with optional mini-hopper)
Flat Burr
Stepless (Micrometrical)
Doserless
Speed of operation: 30.8gm in 30 sec
Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 36°C

For more information on this review and to read about other grinders click here. 

ECA (Anfim) ‘Best
RRP: Silver – $699.00 Chrome – $769.00 (incl GST)

This unit has the look and build quality of a commercial grinder but with significantly smaller dimensions, which lends itself to the domestic kitchen setting. With its polished alloy exterior and weighing only 8kg, it’s slim and stylish with pretty much all the benefits of a larger, heavier commercial unit. Standing at 38cm tall, it has 500gm bean hopper with a hopper-stopper. It has tempered steel flat burr blades, a dosing chamber and utilises a stepped grind adjustment mechanism.

The Best performed very well and our reviewers were particularly impressed with the speed of operation, even when lined up against the bigger semi-commercial grinders. It showed an excellent consistency of grind and dose. The resulting espressos were excellent, with a consistent flavour profile.

There were a couple of minor niggles which were picked up by the reviewers, the main one being that the increments on the stepping collar were quite big – therefore not allowing for ultra fine adjustments to the grind setting, but in practice, this did not present a problem in setting an accurate grind for espresso. The only other main issue was that the tamping disc on the front of the unit gets in the way – in fact, it is often unscrewed and left off by operators ‘in-the-know’!

The build quality and performance make it an excellent grinder to compliment a high-end home espresso machine while its smaller dimensions make it a stylish and reliable grinder for the home espresso setting.

VERDICT: High performance unit for the serious ‘prosumer’. Recommended for the home espresso enthusiast who needs a grinder to handle a moderate to high volume. Also suitable for low volume commercial use (ie: back-up/decaf grinder).

Height: 38cm

Flat Burr (tempered steel), Stepped, Dosing Chamber

Consistency of Dose: Max variation range of 0.1gm (average dose was 5.0gm)

Speed of operation: 39.2gm in 30 sec
Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 31°C

For more information on this review and to read about other grinders click here. 

 So you love great espresso? We do too – that’s the whole reason for Crema Magazine’s existence. So is it all about spending $2,000 + on a fancy espresso machine? Well it may be, but before you go shelling out all that money on a fancy espresso machine, think about your grinder. In fact, one of Australia’s leading espresso authorities maintains that you should spend almost as much on a grinder as you do on your espresso machine – it’s that important.

Why is this most important piece of equipment so often overlooked and its importance underestimated? Well, it’s just not sexy, is it! The grinder is often the thing that you buy as an after-thought, once you have done all your research and finally fallen in love with the perfect, shiny new espresso machine sitting proudly on your kitchen benchtop. But the fact is, your beautiful espresso machine is nothing without the hard-working services of a grinder – one that is capable of grinding those magic beans finely enough for the espresso machine to extract the sweet flavours of the coffee.

Before we reveal our first review, a few notes and explanations:-

Why is temperature important?
Grinding coffee beans in itself, generates heat. It is important that the grinder blades don’t overheat [as a result of the mechanical friction of the blades, the conductive heating of housing materials or the working of the motor], as this can further expose the coffee to heat. Remember that roasted coffee is a delicate, perishable product and overheating may affect the flavour, along with potentially swelling the bean, affecting the fineness of the grind for a given setting [and therefore affecting the extraction].

Some grinders have dosing chambers, and some don’t.
One of the key things about good coffee, is that your beans should be fresh, and equally importantly, that they are freshly ground! A dosing chamber receives the grinds directly from the grinding mechanism, to be released into the filter basket in measured doses as required. For some people, having a dosing chamber is thought to be a temptation to leave ground coffee in the chamber to become stale, leading to an inferior coffee the next time. The argument against dosing chambers therefore, is that having to hold the portafilter right up to the grind chute of a chamberless grinder – as the coffee is coming out – forces you to grind on demand. That is, you can only grind enough to fill the filter basket for the coffee you are about to make, which of course, means the coffee must be freshly ground!

On the other hand, grinders without dosing chambers are inherently messy as the grinds exit straight from the chute, as you’re almost guaranteed not to be able to catch all the grinds as they come out of the dispensing spout. Also, the longer dispensing chute may be prone to clogging, which can cause a back up in the grinding mechanism and seize the machine. Either way, it is important to keep your grinder clean and routinely brush within the chute and grinding chamber if possible.

Flat Burr vs Conical Burr Blades.
Flat Burr Blades: Two metal plates with angled ridges (or burrs) engraved into the facing surfaces – a bit like two dinner plates stacked on top of each other.
Conical Burr Blades: Two metal cones one sitting inside the other with angled ridges (or burrs) engraved into the facing surfaces. 

There is continued debate as to the pros and cons of flat burr blades vs conical burr blades. The basic premise is the same ie: that the beans are crushed between the two burred metal surfaces, the closer together, the finer the grind. However, conical blades have a longer grinding surface and so maintain more contact with the beans during the grinding process – the advantage being that they are able to efficiently grind the beans at a slower speed, thus generating less heat.

Whether flat or conical, as is usually the case, it mostly comes down to quality of production, particularly with respect to the stability of the blade housing and the durability of the materials ie: plastic vs metal mountings. These variables in build-quality are usually reflected in the cost of the grinder.

Mazzer Mini 
RRP: $820.00

The Mazzer Mini hails from an impeccable commercial pedigree and has the look, feel and internal componentry of one of its ‘big brothers’. And at an imposing 45cm in height and weighing in at 10kg, you’d expect it to take its job very seriously. The Mazzer Mini is a flat blade, stepless unit with a dosing chamber. The dosing chamber has industrial, hardened plastic windows, which resist discolouration and scratching. The conical bean hopper has a ‘hopper-stopper’ to allow for tidy detachment of the hopper from the grinder and consequently, easy removal of beans (without having to tip the whole unit over sideways). The grind adjustment collar, as with bigger commercial grinders, is stiff to shift and requires its pin to provide leverage to help turn the collar, to make the fine adjustments that are the inherent benefit of a micrometrical mechanism. Operation was impressively quiet, fast and cool, the grind showed good consistency on visual inspection and the resulting espresso shots were excellent with a consistent flavour profile.

Overall, our reviewers were impressed with the build-quality and smooth, commercial-style operation of the MM, and at the high price [RRP $820] you’d expect nothing less. We found it performed extremely well and certainly deserves its place up there ‘with-the-best’ for serious home espresso enthusiasts. It showed an excellent consistency of grind and of dose, but the most interesting attribute was the temperature performance. It delivered the lowest temperature increase of all the grinders. The only word of warning is that it’s quite a substantial unit, so make sure you check where it is likely to sit in the kitchen, to make sure it will fit underneath overhead cupboards.

VERDICT: Top of the range grinder with commercial-level performance. Recommended for the serious ‘prosumer’ who needs a grinder to handle medium-high volume with absolute confidence. Also suitable for mid-volume commercial use (ie: second grinder for a café).

Height: 45cm
Type: Flat Burr, Stepless (Micrometrical), Dosing Chamber
Consistency of Dose: Max variation range of 0.2gm (average dose was 5.4gm)
Speed of operation: 25.3gm in 30 sec
Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 29°C

ECA (Anfim) ‘Best
RRP: Silver – $699.00 Chrome – $769.00 (incl GST)

This unit has the look and build quality of a commercial grinder but with significantly smaller dimensions, which lends itself to the domestic kitchen setting. With its polished alloy exterior and weighing only 8kg, it’s slim and stylish with pretty much all the benefits of a larger, heavier commercial unit. Standing at 38cm tall, it has 500gm bean hopper with a hopper-stopper. It has tempered steel flat burr blades, a dosing chamber and utilises a stepped grind adjustment mechanism.

The Best performed very well and our reviewers were particularly impressed with the speed of operation, even when lined up against the bigger semi-commercial grinders. It showed an excellent consistency of grind and dose. The resulting espressos were excellent, with a consistent flavour profile.

There were a couple of minor niggles which were picked up by the reviewers, the main one being that the increments on the stepping collar were quite big – therefore not allowing for ultra fine adjustments to the grind setting, but in practice, this did not present a problem in setting an accurate grind for espresso. The only other main issue was that the tamping disc on the front of the unit gets in the way – in fact, it is often unscrewed and left off by operators ‘in-the-know’!

The build quality and performance make it an excellent grinder to compliment a high-end home espresso machine while its smaller dimensions make it a stylish and reliable grinder for the home espresso setting.

VERDICT: High performance unit for the serious ‘prosumer’. Recommended for the home espresso enthusiast who needs a grinder to handle a moderate to high volume. Also suitable for low volume commercial use (ie: back-up/decaf grinder).

Height: 38cm
Flat Burr (tempered steel),
Stepped, Dosing Chamber
Consistency of Dose: Max variation range of 0.1gm (average dose was 5.0gm)
Speed of operation: 39.2gm in 30 sec
Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 31°C

ECA (Anfim) KS
 RRP: $599.00 (incl GST) 

The KS is ECA’s doserless offering and again is well-targeted to the home espresso market. It is slim, weighs only 5kg and stands at 38cm high, making it easily assimilated into the kitchen setting. It houses tempered stainless steel flat burr grinding blades and has a similar stepped adjustment to the Best, with somewhat large increments, although again we experienced no problem in setting the grinder to an accurate grind for espresso.

While a little noisier than its counterpart and not quite as fast, the dispensing chute was very tidy, ensuring a minimum of mess/waste. Targeted a little more towards the mid-range of the domestic grinder market, the KS performed well and certainly had the power and finesse to grind finely enough to service a high-end domestic espresso machine without any hesitation.

Our reviewers were impressed by the capacity of this unit to do the job with a minimum of fuss. Even though it’s nudging into the light-weight category, it kept its cool at a maximum grinder blade temp reading of 31°C through pretty rigorous testing. The consistency of grind showed in the resulting shots of espresso being very good with a clean flavour profile.

VERDICT: a well-performing and stylish domestic unit. Recommended for the home espresso enthusiast for moderate volume.

Height: 38cm

Flat Burr (tempered steel)

Stepped, doserless 

Speed of operation: 27.4gm in 30 sec

Temp of grinder blades at end of test: 31°C

End Note: We will be releasing one grinder review a week online  – for the complete review and side by side comparisons, you can also check out the latest issue (Summer 2009) out now!

THE MACHINES

Unico Splendor

The Splendor features an E61 type group with lever action. It has a 1.3 litre copper boiler and a 3 litre water reservoir but can also be connected to mains supply. The Splendor has a 90 degree swiveling, commercial size steam arm with a 2 hole angled steam tip, which gives excellent steaming control. Both the body and chassis are stainless steel and build quality and standard of finish are excellent. With its 50′s/early 60′s retro styling (with coloured plexiglass side panels) this is a beautiful machine. RRP: $2,550.00. For more information call Cosmorex Coffee Tel: (02) 6280 7511.

Vibiemme

The Domobar Super from Vibiemme is a stunning prestige machine. Vibiemme was founded over 25 years ago by Carlo Earnesto Valente, the founder of Faema and the E61 group head. With these exceptional credentials, the Domobar Super offers excellent heat characteristics resulting in superb coffee with every pour and the superior boiler capacity enables the high volume of steam required for optimum texturising of milk for detailed latte art. Available in gloss black or stainless steel finish. RRP from $2,399 for the Domobar Super and from $2,999 for the Domobar Super Electronica. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

ECM Giotto Premium

Featuring professional quality components, this is a beautiful unit. Thermal stability is the key to making an excellent espresso, and the Giotto has a nickel-plated copper boiler giving excellent heat retention and stable heat transfer to the heat exchanger. The Giotto produces an excellent crema with great steaming ability, and would be a credit to any barista’s kitchen. RRP $2,550. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

Diamond Italia

Manufactured in Milan, the ‘Italia’ is certainly stunning with it’s retro styling. It has a full stainless steel chassis but with chromed, heat resistant plastic side panels. It features a 1.8ltr copper boiler, anti-burn steam wand, professional E61 group head and removable 3ltr water tank and drip tray. RRP: $2,400.00. For more information call Diamond Services on 1300 302 522 or visit www.myitalia.com.au.

Isomac Mondiale

Based in Milan, the Isomac is another well-established line of semi-commercial units. With its complete stainless steel construction, 2 litre tank and a 2.2 litre boiler, it is designed to deliver the perfect espresso every time. The funky Mondiale is the latest in a line of excellent domestic machines with an impeccable pedigree. RRP: $2,650.00.

Expobar Barista Minore

Also known as the ‘Brewtus’ this machine has been extremely popular in the United States.  Made in Spain, the Barista Minore uses the ever-popular E61 group-head and has a dual boiler system (both with auto refill) with powerful heating elements. It’s a simple-enough looking machine, but it’s the double boilers which stand out. Along with digital temperature control of the coffee group, they give excellent temperature stability.  Combined with a slightly lower entry-price, this makes the Expobar a machine that’s definitely worth looking at. RRP: $2,300.00.

La Marzocco GS/3

Following on the famous La Marzocco name for commercial espresso machines, comes the single group GS/3. This quasi manual/automatic machine, combines the power of a commercial machine with the ease of multi-function touch-pad controls and is certainly a beautiful looking piece of equipment. However, it is a step up in price, retailing for around $7,000 putting it out of the league for many ‘prosumers’ – and most would say it is simply not necessary to pay that much. For more information contact Espresso Equipment Specialists Australia Pty Ltd.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Remember, for machines at this level you’re going to have to buy a grinder as well – a good one will set you back at least $500 – but the reason these machines make such great quality espresso is that they allow you to grind the coffee finely enough to get the most out of the freshly ground espresso – to extract the oils and aromatics to the fullest degree. It does take time and some degree of expertise to get the best out of them, although, the end result is worth it.

Freshness is a key pre-requisite for great coffee. It’s when you actually grind your own beans and make the coffee immediately afterwards, that you get the best of the tastes and aromas that a well-roasted bean can reveal. When it comes to beans, generally a week, to a maximum of 10 days is seen as their shelf life, once roasted. Most roasters recommend keeping your coffee beans in a sealed pack, in a cool environment.

Note: This listing is by no means complete, there are many more machines on the market and we will be amending these reviews and adding new ones as information comes to hand. Prices are indicative only, there may be price variations between distributors.

There is no doubt that the Atomic carries a cachet like no other coffee machine. We look at the history, the style and, most importantly, how to make the best coffee possible.

Being a fashion (and coffee) photographer, I have spent many years coveting objects of desire. So, when Crema magazine asked me to write about my love-affair with my Atomic coffee machine, my plan was to reference design journals and various interior design magazines’ obsession with placing an Atomic in just about every designer kitchen shot. However, when it comes down to it, it is more about one’s personal love-affair with this iconic object of desire and the pleasure of getting to know just what it takes to create a good coffee, rather than it’s history as an industrial fashion model.

So, for me, as for many an aficionado, the love affair began when I saw, on the shelf of my local Vinnie’s, a mint condition Atomic coffee machine. (I almost had a fight with the guy directly behind me who saw it as I picked it up. I held it close to my chest as he followed me through the store and outside where he offered me double the $8 I paid for it…). My machine was branded ‘BonTrading’ and, as I was to learn, it was one of the various entities to exhort the name of Atomic.

When I explained to a friend, and fellow Atomic devotee, that I was researching a story on the Atomic, she dug out from her grandfathers’ garage, the original packaging and instructions for the machine she now uses every day. Her grandfather had bought the machine for his wife in 1952. It cost him twenty five pounds, which was at that time, equivalent to a weeks wages. In today’s prices that would make it around the same price as purchasing a high-end automatic domestic machine.

As with any super model, mystique is an integral part of their appeal. So too, with the Atomic, an aura of mystery surrounds its origins and design. Reportedly designed in 1947, production is reliably thought to have started around this time. The design has been most widely credited to either an unknown designer in the UK or to its best-known Italian patent holder, Giordano Robbiati of Milan. Either way, what is known as fact, is that the machines were manufactured by Robbiati in Milan and the first known model was sold in the UK. Created within the fold of the modernist period that has come to be known as “Organic Design”, the Atomic has become allied with such renowned design names as Ray & Charles Eames, Marc Newson and Henry Moore, although its fundamental creator is conclusively unknown.

Whilst all manufactured in Milan and maintaining the same basic design principle, various models, approximately 20 in total, have been re-branded by companies like Stella (Austria), Sassoon (UK), Bon Trading (Australia) and others in the US such as Cara, LaTable and the most coveted, La Sorrentina.

Production abruptly ceased in 1986 and again, a degree of mystery surrounds the circumstances. It is rumoured that the Italian factory was razed by a calamatous fire. Other stories say it could have been an insurance rort. Whatever the truth, it is widely believed that the Robbiati factory was forced to close due to economic pressures. But, from what has been considered its ultimate career move, the Atomic is often described as ‘

rising like a phoenix from the ashes’ with the price of a mint condition Atomic going through the roof.
There is much contention amongst Atomic disciples, amateur and expert alike, regarding the best practices to follow to make a great coffee from the Atomic.Most of that debate centres around the grind and tamping of the coffee. However, there are a number of elements which are universally agreed.

The Atomic is a high pressure stovetop unit and generates a respectable 4-6 bars of pressure and can make up to four cups of coffee, and easily has the steaming power to texture the quantity of milk required.

Firstly, you really can’t leave the machine as there are critical moments where timing is of the essence, particularly with respect to milk texturing.

As with all great coffee, freshness is a key element. Use freshly roasted coffee and grind on demand. The grind required will depend on the coffee chosen, but basically it needs to be a medium to fine grind. A domestic burr grinder will usually suffice. As with espresso, the grind from pre-ground coffees is often too coarse (suited more to a plunger) but is still acceptable if tamped accordingly.

This is where the main debate surfaces but the basic rule applies; the resulting extraction should resemble the apocryphal rat’s-tail. This indicates a good pressure at the coffee face thus producing a good extraction and providing the secondary pressure to activate the steam wand. So, a certain degree of individual experimentation is required to perfect the grind/tamp combination. That is, tamp harder for a medium grind, tamp lighter for a finer grind; it really is a matter of individual preference.

There are three basket sizes originally available. On the deepest basket, fill flush to the top of the basket and tamp; this is a good dosage for two strong milk coffees. For four serves, top dose on the original tamp to the top of the basket and tamp again.

Using filtered water, fill the Atomic jug to half full and pour into the reservoir – this should be enough for 2 or 4 coffees if correctly dosed and tamped (approximately 80 ml of coffee liquid).

The initial extraction is black and slick, progressing to a clearer and clearer liquid. When the extraction begins to wane, you need to remove the jug and allow any aerated-watery excess to pass into another heatproof vessel for later disposal.

It is at this stage that the maximum pressure has been achieved for steaming the milk. If the grind and tamping is correct, the pressure that has built up is quite significant and you are easily able to texture the milk as well as, if not better, than a modern domestic espresso machine.

Thorough cleaning immediately after use, as well as regular de-scaling, is a must (yearly to half-yearly depending on the hardness of water used). For this purpose, professional espresso machine de-scaling tablets are appropriate as is the more natural approach of vinegar or citric acid solutions; making sure the machine is thoroughly flushed with clear water before re-using.

Step By Step

Step 1

Using filtered water, fill the Atomic jug to half full and pour into the reservoir – this should be enough for two to four coffees if correctly dosed and tamped (approx 80ml of coffee liquid).

Step 2

The grind. A certain degree of individual experimentation is required to perfect the grind/tamp combination. That is, tamp harder for a medium grind, tamp lighter for a finer grind; it really is a matter of individual preference.

Step 3

Dosage and tamping. There are three basket sizes originally available. On the deepest basket, fill flush to the top of the basket and tamp; this is a good dosage for two strong milk coffees. For four serves, top dose on the original tamp to the top of the basket and tamp again.

Step 4

Extraction. The original extraction is black and slick progressing to a clearer and clearer liquid. When the extraction begins to wane, you need to remove the pan and allow any aerated-watery excess to pass into another heatproof vessel for later disposal.

Step 5

Milk texturing. At this stage the maximum pressure has been achieved for steaming the milk. If the grind and tamping is correct, the pressure that has built up is quite significant and you are easily able to texture the milk as well as, if not better than, a modern domestic espresso machine.

Credit
Hamish Ta-me is a professional photographer specialising in fashion and, of course coffee. Hamish has worked with Crema Magazine since its inception with his work gracing the covers and embellishing the stories within for many years. Hamish is a coffee enthusiast and devoted to his Atomic. You can view more of Hamish’s work or get his contact details on www.doofdoofdoof.com

We also spoke with Jack Grieve, a passionate collector of original Atomic coffee machines, and a collector of antique coffee machines in general. “As a design object, the Atomic is one of the most unusual, and I think, one of the most beautiful coffee machines ever mass produced. It unifies form and function in organic perfection” explains Jack. “It really sits in between a traditional Italian moka stove-top machine and an espresso machine – it’s unique design generally produces a greater bar of pressure through the coffee than the moka stove-top unit and so, if operated correctly, can produce a little crema. Really, its as close to an espresso machine as you can get on a stove-top”. Jack also has a keen understanding of their value and says,  “If you have a mint condition machine still with it’s boxing, particularly if it is one of the rarer models, it can fetch up to $1,200 on eBay. Even a machine in poor condition with missing parts can go for as much as $250″. In the world of collecting, Jack goes on to explain that arguably the rarest and most sought after Atomic model hails from the mid-period of production (mid 1960′s) and has stunning emerald green Bakelite parts. “It appears that very few machines with green Bakelite parts were ever produced, if you ever see one you will immediately understand why they are so desired- they are simply stunning!”

Jack’s passion has extended to becoming involved in developing and manufacturing a premium reproduction of the Atomic style machine, called “La Sorrentina” which is now available in Australia in limited numbers.

It’s also important to point out right at the beginning, that no matter how much money you spend on an espresso machine, it’s absolutely crucial to have fresh coffee and if you’re using beans (rather than supermarket pre-ground coffee) a good quality grinder is essential.

Now that we’ve got a couple of the important basics out of the way, the good news is that the choices available in the low-mid point range for domestic espresso machines are better than ever. The market has been going gangbusters for the last few years and as competition increases, so naturally, price points have dropped. 

The competition hasn’t just been from the fancy-sounding Italian names, either. Our local manufacturers are catching up fast (and some say, even leapfrogging) the classic names. In recent years local companies Sunbeam and Breville, once known for their appliances rather than coffee machines, have been coming out with home machines that produce a result far better than their price might indicate.

Methodology

Although in professional testing facilities, we tried as far as possible to emulate how each of the machines would be approached by a new purchaser

Once removed from the box, we set the machine up and plugged it in, according to the supplied instructions. We tried each machine on a fine grind, just a little coarser than you would use on a commercial espresso machine in a café. This is a tough test for a domestic espresso machine, so we noted the results for each machine, and then tested them again with the coarser-type pre-ground coffee available (vacuum-packed) in supermarkets.

Note that we didn’t measure warm-up time because most of them warm up adequately within 3-5 minutes, and quite frankly, temperature stability is a much more important factor for a coffee machine. This is a tricky thing for a manufacturer to get right, but it’s important because if the brewing temperature is too low, the coffee with be under-extracted, while if it’s too hot, you will end up with a burnt coffee.

To gauge temperature stability, we measured the temperature of each machine on an average of four extractions, each measured at random intervals over a period of 5-10 minutes via an electronic thermometer with wire probe in the cup.  

Definitions vary but most agree that temperature leaving the group head should be around 92°C, while by the time it reaches the cup, it should be around 72-74 degrees (anything more than 75° is a problem!). We tried consecutive pours without purging (to test whether the heat had built up unacceptably high) and then purging (ie releasing water through the group head) if necessary.

There are basically two types of machine in the test – the basic manual machine (most of which were under $500) and the automatics, most of which sit at the top of the price range of machines tested here.

Gadgets & Widgets

Several of the machines tested featured a ‘crema-enhancing’ device in the filter holder. These systems are intended to give a professional looking crema on the top of your espresso but we have mixed feelings as to their usefulness – quite frankly they may give the impression of a good crema, but as far as we’re concerned, it’s the taste that counts and we have our doubts as to whether these systems make any difference.

Steaming - likewise many of the domestic machines sport a froth-enhancing attachment to the steam wand. These help give a sudsy cappuccino-type foam, but they typically deliver a result that’s too frothy – not the dense-textured foam that we’re looking for.

Instructions – especially for the uninitiated, clear, well-written instructions, with useful pictures can make a big difference. There was a wide variety, including some with line-drawings and others with photographic representations, some expressly written in English, and others part of a multi-translation booklet. Because they play such an important part in helping you along the way, we give a view on the instructions provided with each machine.

Manual vs Automatic Machines

In this test, we have included both manual & automatic machines. What is it that typifies an automatic machine in this price bracket? Typically it will have a built-in hopper into which you pour the beans. When you push the ‘on’ button, you will usually hear a (sometimes high-pitched) whining sound as it grinds the coffee, followed by a number of whirring, clunking sounds, which can last anything from 15-25 seconds (the machine is packing & tamping in the coffee). A short time later, you’ll see a stream of coffee pouring into your cup, usually of short duration (around 10 secs, as opposed to the 25 seconds you’d expect for an extraction on a manual machine.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of automatic over manual machines? There’s no question that automatics are great for convenience. For those who want no-fuss, freshly-brewed coffee in a hurry, they’re an excellent option. They’re not the machine to go for, however, if you like to have some degree of control over the coffee end product. While they tend to have buttons & dials which allow you to vary the dose & grind, in practice you simply don’t have the option to oversee the coffee-making process to the same degree that a manual machine will.

There are a couple of other things to keep in mind. Generally there is a question over which beans you’re grinding and which you’re actually brewing from. This is because with some automatics, the machine will be brewing coffee one or two grinds behind the sounds you are hearing the machine make. This means that you would be advised to ‘waste’ the first one or two coffees you make because otherwise you could actually be drinking coffee ground yesterday, with obvious freshness implications. Also impacting on freshness, is the fact that once you’ve poured the beans into the hopper, they’re normally very difficult to get out. The freshness of your coffee beans is impacted by a number of factors – of which heat is high up on the list. Check a demo model of the automatic machine you’re looking at purchasing, and if its design means the beans are susceptible to deterioration from heat in the hopper, this could be a hindrance to making that great-tasting espresso you’re after.

Lastly, be aware that automatic machines don’t exactly emulate the manual process. We’ve already mentioned their much shorter brew time. They also tend to produce a mellower, softer brew than a manual machine. However, whether this is a problem is a matter of personal preference. If you wish to produce the strong, full-bodied espresso flavour of your local café, an automatic may not be the best option, but this is really a matter of personal taste.

The Automatic Machines

Saeco Incanto

The Incanto has been around for a few years and this is an updated version of the original model. It’s a smart-looking machine with a matt plastic silver casing, and is seated on a carousel platform, so that it can swivel easily (which you may or may not, find useful). It came with a 3-month water filter, which impressed our testers, but there was no advice as to where to go for a replacement. They also found the water tank a little fiddly to insert and remove.

The instructions included pictures, but were a little cluttered and some of the translation from Italian was clunky. Once you have mastered the instructions however, this unit is relatively easy to use, with quiet, no-fuss operation. It gave the sort of taste result typical of an automatic – relatively mild with a nice-looking crema. It had a useful, flexible steam wand and produced a moderate steam with a slightly wet quality. Overall, excellent value for money for an automatic unit.

Gaggia Synchrony

Another machine which has stood the test of time, the Syncrony is an imposing-looking unit, again with the matt silver plastic casing. Instructions, although of the multi-language type, were reasonably intuitive, and overall it’s simple to use. Getting the grind/dose settings right took a bit of work (our first coffee produced a slightly light-coloured crema indicating under-extraction) but once we had adjusted the dials, this unit produced an acceptable result.

As with the Saeco Incanto, we found it a little frustrating that you couldn’t remove the frothing unit on the steam wand, but steam capacity itself was excellent, producing a very powerful stream. Despite finding its operation a little noisy (clunky, with a high-pitched grinding sound, the Syncrony is a competent automatic machine from a manufacturer with a good reputation.

De Longhi Magnifica 3200S

This is a beautiful-looking machine. The Magnifica comes with a huge ‘multi-language’ instruction manual – almost like reading a book! However, the instructions themselves were clear and were accompanied by a useful instruction video. Set-up was easy, as was operation, although we thought its grind cycle a little noisy.

The Magnifica produced a ‘professional-looking’ espresso with a nice crema and good body. In fact one of the comments was that of all the automatic machines, this was the unit that produced a result most like that of a traditional espresso machine (see panel on automatic vs manual machines). Steam pressure was a little slow to build up, but once it got there, it produced a nice quality steam. Although slightly more expensive than the Saeco Incanto, this is an excellent unit. Although the De Longhi 3200S Magnifica is at the top end of this price range, you’re getting a lot of automatic coffee machine for your money.

Sunbeam Aromatic (Semi-automatic)

You could describe this machine as a semi-automatic, although we would probably call it an ‘intelligent’ manual machine. The first thing you notice is its solid build – it’s really quite a heavy unit. Gone are the days when you’d associate the Sunbeam name with no more sophisticated appliances than toasters and electric kettles – it’s a serious espresso machine. Instructions were excellent and operation simple. This unit produced a nice-tasting result, although be aware that because of the crema-enhancing device in the filter holder you tend to be left with a wet residue in the filter basket (typical of a machine sporting this type of device).

The intelligence of this unit comes into play when you’ve made one brew, then steamed your milk, and then want to make a second round of coffees. A typical problem with domestic machines is that if you have just been steaming, the temperature will have built up to around 100 degree – too high for the next round of coffees, (espresso should be brewed at no more than 92 deg C). The Aromatic’s ‘intelligence’ comes in the form of an in-built chip that will not allow you to make the next coffee until the temperature has reduced to the optimal level – quite an innovation for a machine at this price level.

The Manual Machines

Gaggia Classic (Manual)

There’s something reassuring about the old-fashioned design of an espresso machine such as the Classic, although don’t get us wrong – with its simple, clean lines, it’s still a good-looking unit. While the group head is of solid construction, there’s a slight ‘disconnect’ when you insert and tighten the group handle – the machine itself is quite light and tends to skew around on the bench if you’re unprepared for it.

Although it suffered from the obligatory multi-language manual, instructions were relatively clear and easy to use. You should be aware that this is a machine of the older-style boiler variety and to ensure optimal operation, you should remember to purge after steaming. In effect, this means that for best results, after steaming you need to turn on the coffee button, then turn on the steam again until water comes out of the steam arm (allowing the boiler to re-fill) before making your next shot.

As the name suggests, this is a ‘classic’ unit, which produces a great espresso; it also produced an excellent steam. Having been around for a number of years, the Gaggia Classic is a tried and true performer.

De Longhi EC 750

The De Longhi EC 750, like its bigger brother, the Magnifica, is a very good-looking machine. The instructions were of the ‘multi-language’ type, but again, de Longhi have complemented these with a useful instruction video.

The De Longhi machines feature what they call the ESE system – which allows for use of a pod in the filter basket, instead of ground coffee. It’s a quick and convenient, and as far as we know, De Longhi is the only manufacturer which features this as an option on machines at this level.

The only design downside is a very lightweight filter holder with a clip device to hold the filter basket in place. We found this a little fiddly and potentially annoying; however if you don’t use it, the filter basket will drop out when you’re emptying used grounds.

We found the EC 750 ran a little hot – we measured in-cup temperature at around 83/4 deg C consistently over five pours. However, it produced quite a creditable taste result, and operation was a breeze. There’s also a ‘built-in’ milk-frother – this ran a little cold for our tastes, but depending on your own preferences, you might find this a nifty feature.

Sunbeam Café Ristretto

This is a basic little machine that does just about everything right. We found it quite smart to look at, with its black plastic exterior and it had a nice, solid feel for such a small unit. And, almost unbelievably for such a competent machine, it’s available at a fraction under $100!

At this price level, you wouldn’t expect too many bells & whistles, but the instructions were clear, it was simple to operate, and produced a surprisingly good-tasting coffee with an excellent crema. Although the steam was initially a little wet, the end-result was very good – we managed to produce a smooth, creamy-textured milk.

We found the Sunbeam Ristretto to be an uncomplicated unit with excellent temperature stability and, for it’s price, an amazing buy. Ideal for a first espresso machine purchase or a gift!

Breville Café Roma

The Breville Café Roma is a compact, smart-looking unit, of simple construction and operation. One of the features of the café Roma is a conveniently positioned water tank, with easy-to-see water levels.

We found the temperature of the Café Roma varied quite considerably (see comment on temperature stability in intro.?) – the in-cup range we tested was from 70-76 deg C. It produced a nice-looking crema, although it did have some bubbles (possibly as a result of the crema-enhancing device), and produced an adequate taste result. Breville also employ the rather fiddly basket clip on the filter holder, which we find annoying.

After removing the froth enhancer, this unit produced a good, consistent steam with a resulting nicely textured milk. This is a popular unit with good reason – it’s a nice-looking machine and represents good value for money.

Breville ‘800 Class’

This is an interesting-looking machine – you’ll either love it or hate it, but our team certainly found its brushed aluminium ‘moulded-metal’ look distinctive. Design-wise, the team also appreciated the clever access to the internal water tank. We’re not quite sure where the ‘800 class’ nomenclature came from, but presumably it means that it’s a step or two up from the lower levels, and this unit performed nicely.

Instructions, with accompanying photographs, were clear and intuitive. While the in-cup temperature varied a little, it was certainly acceptable and while it produced only an average result on the pre-ground coffee, surprisingly, the machine produced an excellent shot on the finer (commercial) grind. Steaming was excellent, with a strong stream of good, dry steam. This is a very good mid-priced manual unit.

Saeco Via Venezia

Another classic manual espresso machine with an excellent build and finish, the Via Venezia is a proven performer. It has the same, uncomplicated boiler construction as the Gaggia Classic, however, this is where the similarities with the Classic end. Unlike the tall, lean Classic, the Via Venezia is short and squat.

The ‘supacrema’ pressurized group handle creates an abundant crema, although it exhibited a grainy and “fine bubbled” appearance rather than the beautifully smooth, thick appearance that we have come to expect from real espresso. Likewise, the Via Venezia is unique amongst the manual machines, in that it produces a brew similar to that which is produced by the automatics- ie a mellower, softer brew (see panel: manual vs automatic machines).

Steaming is a little slow but produces an excellent result. Instructions, of the (seemingly obligatory for a European-sourced machine) multi-language variety, were adequate. If you’re looking for a good, solid manual machine, the Saeco Via Venezia is a very good choice. 

Final Note:

Cleaning - it’s worth cleaning your machine regularly (follow manufacturer’s instructions). Making an espresso involves the release of delicate oils and aromas from the coffee beans. Although these are natural products, like any organic substance, they can build up and become rancid and stale, which will eventually affect the taste of your coffee. Keeping your machine clean is a bit of a chore, especially with manual machines, but it’s worth doing, and with the newer (automatic) machines it’s now often a matter of a simple cleaning cycle programmed in!