Magical Maldives

When it comes to living lavishly, there’s no place quite like the Maldives, says Melissa Rimac.

Bolt-bright turquoise, aquamarine, azure, indigo, sapphire, aqua, cobalt, ice-blue, teal, powder-blue. 

In the Maldives, more hues of blue presented themselves than I could have ever imagined possible in a single vision. There are blues that excite, blues that soothe, blues so deep and intense you almost have to look away. These are blues that envelop your every move and lure you to forget yourself.  And, as far as the eye can see, there’s nothing but pure pleasure.

The Maldives is not so much about seeing or doing as it is about being. Much as what’s on offer here is utterly sumptuous – it’s the luxury of time, space, tranquility and natural wonders that leaves an imprint.  And, just as it becomes impossible to tell where the sea and sky meet, in the Maldives you quickly lose track of what day it is. 

The blue magic took hold from the moment the plane dipped, tilted and almost kissed the ultra-blue Indian Ocean. There are around 1190 islands in the Maldives and it’s nigh on impossible not to gasp when you first catch sight of them – green dots surrounded by white sand that catch the light and sparkle like diamonds punctuating a satiny Indian Ocean. 

As is apt for a watery wonderland, Male airport occupies an island all its own, and, rather than the usual scrum of taxis, speedboats and seaplanes stand by to whisk visitors to their island fantasy. No building can be higher that a coconut palm and each resort is situated on its very own island. Five star is where it starts – resorts in the Maldives have perfected style, luxury, fine food, sensational spas and a myriad of ways to appreciate the archipelago’s natural wonders. The trick is to define your dream and head for an island where it will be realized.

Our butler at Naladhu Island welcomed us with a warm smile and a cool lemongrass scented towel, and, as he showed us around our house, the realisation that we hadn’t merely journeyed to another country; we had, in fact, stepped onto another world.

Our very private and super spacious ‘house’ (‘bungalow’ or ‘suite’ just wouldn’t do justice) combined old-world colonial comforts – antiques, ‘vanity area’ complete with hand-crafted jewellery boxes, massive his and hers changing areas, a swing the size of a double bed – all with every modern whim imaginable. A generous plunge pool (into which we could tumble directly from bed) steam room, choice of lounging spots from which to savour the salty air and gaze at jewel-coloured fish, a huge range of gourmet teas and coffees, and lavish outdoor bathroom, complete with a ‘conversation couch’ and a huge bathtub festooned with rose petals, the option of ín-house dining, spas and yoga lessons furthered the sense of an all-encompassing pleasure.

But, beyond the classy, low-key glamour of our house, lay temptations well worth stirring for. Some days, we’d kayak out to the reef’s edge and swim amidst a whirl of incandescent fish and intricate corals; or hop aboard a dhoni – a traditional Maldivian sailboat – and seek out dolphins, empty islets and reefs where the water wowed us with its violet hue and the fish formed streams of iridescent colour. Then there’s the delights of sister island Anantara, with its range of superb buffets and over-water spa. At day’s end: sorbet sunsets, champagne and snacks at our private beach – cabana.    

At jungle clad Soneva Fushi – one of the largest islands in the Maldives – the pleasures proffered are accented with deeply sensual, almost primal elements. Reaching this secluded, endearingly escapist island involves more blue bliss in the form of a thrilling sea-plane ride. Gazing down at turquoise depths so gin-clear, I could make out individual turtles and clumps of coral, and soon became oblivious how un-cool my visible excitement appeared.

‘No news, no shoes’ is the island motto here. And indeed, the act of divesting yourself of footwear goes way beyond the symbolic. As soon as I felt sand sifting between my toes, a heady abandon kicked in.

My breath tangibly deepened and my smile widened as our butler, Abas, led us along a fragrant sandy path flanked by curtains of birdsong. Soon we’re ensconced within our house feeling every inch as if marooned on our own private paradise – enveloped within lush, loud jungle, with a private stretch of glassy beach only a few paces away.

Each morning, we’d step outside to find the footprints of birds and crabs in the sand and a sprinkling of deep saffon-coloured hibiscuses. Seeking out some of Soneva’s many pleasures – like the free joya classes, jungle-cloaked spa and jetties that take you directly to reef’s edge – involved strolling or cycling along banyan and pandanas-shaded paths; also used by the island’s black chooks, rabbits, bright green lizards and colourful ground-birds.

Going to the movies will never feel the same again after ‘Cinema Paradiso’, where, after riding our bikes along a lamp-lit track, we reclined on daybeds and watched mid-century classics, enlivened somewhat by gheckos darting across the screen.

Three quarters of the world’s reef fish species can be found in the Maldives and many of these, I’d wager, accompanied us on Soneva Fushi’s beaches; with Turtle Beach offering an especially remote vibe. Our watches soon become irrelevant and, without even the barest hint of guilt, we spent endless hours in totally unaccountable ways.

Sadly, our seaplane back to ‘reality’ didn’t quite concur with our new-found laxity with time!  

Best Times: 

November – April is peak season in The Maldives, but May to October -  when it’s easier to secure accommodation in this increasingly popular destination – offers lower prices, the enhanced seclusion of fewer guests and predominantly sunny skies.

Editors Note: The publishing of this article does not constitute a travel recommendation by Crema Magazine. At the time of publication, The Maldives were experiencing a period of political unrest, as people protest against 30 years of authoritarian rule.

This entry was posted on Monday, June 23rd, 2008 at 12:54 pm and is filed under Coffee Culture - travel & lifestyle, Online Magazine. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.