By Christopher Short

Coffee aficionados love to discuss the elements that make for their perfect cup. Factors often mentioned are their favorite brand of coffee beans, the proportion of arabica to robusta beans, the type of roast and single versus double boiler espresso machines, just to name a few. Interestingly, one issue only occasionally considered is that of water quality. This is odd given that water constitutes 95% of an espresso.

The reason it is not top of the list is probably because few really know what attributes they should be looking for in water and they generally have little choice in the matter. For most of us, it just arrives, normally out of the tap. The reason we should be concerned about water quality is that it does affect the taste of your coffee and it has a significant effect on brewing equipment performance and reliability in many regions.

Water could be referred to as ‘the universal solvent’. It will dissolve almost anything to some degree. As rain falls to earth it takes up airborne gases like car and truck exhaust fumes and industry air pollution. This is why the air smells so fresh after a good rain. Once on the ground the water soaks in, dissolving naturally occurring calcium, magnesium, iron and other elements as well as ground pollution. In addition, water collects particulate matter (commonly called dirt!) that will not dissolve but is carried in suspension.

To improve water quality, public water authorities treat the water to remove most of the dirt particles and to disinfect it. The most common way to disinfect water is through the addition of chlorine, which will inevitably alter the taste of the coffee. Installation of appropriate water filters will remove the chlorine from the water and will ensure that any dirt particles are removed. Some people prefer to use rainwater in their home espresso machines. It is imperative to use a water filter before filling the water tank to remove the dirt particles and, if the correct filter is used, the dissolved air pollution.

Another issue involving water is that of water ‘hardness’ – that is, the content of calcium and magnesium in the water. Higher levels constitute harder water. The reason water gets hard is by the percolation of ground water through calcium and magnesium-laden soils. Water hardness is not removed by filtration and has no health effects. In fact, many bottled mineral waters are exceptionally hard. It is interesting that espresso made from hard water tastes better. The reason is that flavour extraction from ground beans increases with harder water. However, there is a limit – beyond 90 parts per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate, flavour extraction does not increase. This would be fine except that hard water (150ppm and above) causes significant build up of calcium scale in coffee brewing equipment. A way of avoiding this is to use a water softener, which replaces the calcium content with sodium. This is why water softeners must occasionally be regenerated with sodium chloride (common salt), which is the source of the sodium.

Softening water will reduce the problem of hard water scale build up in the machine but it will, to a degree, alter the taste of the coffee. Alternatively, the use of unsoftened (but still filtered) water will enhance the taste but necessitate occasional descaling of the machine. Non-carbonated spring or mineral water can be used effectively in home espresso machines with water tanks. These waters are generally of moderate hardness and are filtered, providing good quality water for espresso.

In summary, for better tasting coffee, moderately hard water is fine but ensure it is filtered and that you descale your machine occasionally.

Christopher Short is Managing Director of Adelaide-based cleaning products company, Cafetto.

Tasting and blending coffee is a very complex, creative and scientific process which is unfortunately underestimated by a great number of people who actually work in the industry. Coffee cupping is one of those wonderful and very necessary rituals which sadly only a small percentage of coffee roasters, green buyers and retailers undertake. Unfortunately for the consuming public, this can lead to a lack of quality in coffee from those who do not regularly audit their suppliers, coffee production and the end product sold to consumers. Often these same people do not venture out trying new products and styles to improve the quality of the end cup. So why is coffee cupping so important, and what does cupping a coffee to produce an end product entail?

Coffee is a fresh product, is living and changing every second, which must be constantly checked throughout the production line. From one roast to another, from one bag to another, in order to put together a good coffee, the cupper (or taster) must also have an intricate knowledge of roasting, coffee origins, profiling, brewing and storage. Missing even one of these elements is like missing a link in a chain – the end product does not hold up. A good cupper, like a good chef, must have the skill to combine tradition and training with ability and creativity. They also need to explore new territory in order to continue to improve the coffee experience while still respecting established qualities and characteristics.

From crop to cup there are a number of important factors that affect the taste of coffee. Coffee, like wine, develops distinct flavour characteristics based on its country or region of origin. These flavours can develop and vary with season, growing conditions and harvest. Coffee processing is the next crucial element. From the two traditional methods of wet or dry processing, to the more cutting edge pulp natural, semi washed and double pass. Each processing method produces a different taste in the coffee caused by the different ways the layers are stripped from the cherries revealing the coffee bean within. If a cupper does not have the knowledge of the taste each method produces, they cannot understand how it will taste in the end. Fermentation within the beans can also happen at this time and spoil the cup, in similar fashion to corked wine. This major fault must also be tasted for in every bag of raw product to avoid destroying an entire roast.

A more commonly discussed contributor to the taste of coffee is roasting. The ‘Roast Master’ has the power to greatly affect the taste and flavour of the coffee with the processes used.  As well as different roasting methods and different types of coffee roasters, we must add to this, the different roast colours. Coffee can be roasted from medium or light brown, through to a high, dark brown, or caramel roast. Each colour will affect the taste – the lighter roasts have a higher acidity and milder taste, while darker roasts have a lower acidity and more intense taste. Time, temperature control, air flow and volume of raw coffee roasted will also impact the coffee flavour. To complicate things further coffee origins can be roasted separately then blended, or pre blended as green coffee and roasted together. Each taste profile is significantly different.

Equally as important is the production or brewing method of the coffee. The coffee should be blended and roasted to suit the brewing method, be it for a plunger, stovetop espresso, filter or espresso. The brewing process, which includes water temperature and water quality, coffee freshness, grind size and brewing time (the time the water and coffee are actually in contact), is fundamental to the end cup. You can have the best coffee in the world, but if it is not brewed correctly it will not perform.

Cupping is essential in producing a quality end product. The cupper must be aware of their impact on the final taste when selecting the original product. People in the coffee industry who do not cup their coffee or who shop for their raw product from a standard list have no control on how their coffee will taste.

Emily Oak is on the Board of Directors for the World Barista Championships and is the Asia Pacific Regional Coordinator for the WBC. She is also Training and Development Manager for Australian Independent Roasters in Sydney and a regular contributor for Crema Magazine.

THE MACHINES

Unico Splendor

The Splendor features an E61 type group with lever action. It has a 1.3 litre copper boiler and a 3 litre water reservoir but can also be connected to mains supply. The Splendor has a 90 degree swiveling, commercial size steam arm with a 2 hole angled steam tip, which gives excellent steaming control. Both the body and chassis are stainless steel and build quality and standard of finish are excellent. With its 50’s/early 60’s retro styling (with coloured plexiglass side panels) this is a beautiful machine. RRP: $2,550.00. For more information call Cosmorex Coffee Tel: (02) 6280 7511.

Vibiemme

The Domobar Super from Vibiemme is a stunning prestige machine. Vibiemme was founded over 25 years ago by Carlo Earnesto Valente, the founder of Faema and the E61 group head. With these exceptional credentials, the Domobar Super offers excellent heat characteristics resulting in superb coffee with every pour and the superior boiler capacity enables the high volume of steam required for optimum texturising of milk for detailed latte art. Available in gloss black or stainless steel finish. RRP from $2,399 for the Domobar Super and from $2,999 for the Domobar Super Electronica. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

ECM Giotto Premium

Featuring professional quality components, this is a beautiful unit. Thermal stability is the key to making an excellent espresso, and the Giotto has a nickel-plated copper boiler giving excellent heat retention and stable heat transfer to the heat exchanger. The Giotto produces an excellent crema with great steaming ability, and would be a credit to any barista’s kitchen. RRP $2,550. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

Diamond Italia

Manufactured in Milan, the ‘Italia’ is certainly stunning with it’s retro styling. It has a full stainless steel chassis but with chromed, heat resistant plastic side panels. It features a 1.8ltr copper boiler, anti-burn steam wand, professional E61 group head and removable 3ltr water tank and drip tray. RRP: $2,400.00. For more information call Diamond Services on 1300 302 522 or visit www.myitalia.com.au.

Isomac Mondiale

Based in Milan, the Isomac is another well-established line of semi-commercial units. With its complete stainless steel construction, 2 litre tank and a 2.2 litre boiler, it is designed to deliver the perfect espresso every time. The funky Mondiale is the latest in a line of excellent domestic machines with an impeccable pedigree. RRP: $2,650.00.

Expobar Barista Minore

Also known as the ‘Brewtus’ this machine has been extremely popular in the United States.  Made in Spain, the Barista Minore uses the ever-popular E61 group-head and has a dual boiler system (both with auto refill) with powerful heating elements. It’s a simple-enough looking machine, but it’s the double boilers which stand out. Along with digital temperature control of the coffee group, they give excellent temperature stability.  Combined with a slightly lower entry-price, this makes the Expobar a machine that’s definitely worth looking at. RRP: $2,300.00.

La Marzocco GS/3

Following on the famous La Marzocco name for commercial espresso machines, comes the single group GS/3. This quasi manual/automatic machine, combines the power of a commercial machine with the ease of multi-function touch-pad controls and is certainly a beautiful looking piece of equipment. However, it is a step up in price, retailing for around $7,000 putting it out of the league for many ‘prosumers’ – and most would say it is simply not necessary to pay that much. For more information contact Espresso Equipment Specialists Australia Pty Ltd.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Remember, for machines at this level you’re going to have to buy a grinder as well – a good one will set you back at least $500 – but the reason these machines make such great quality espresso is that they allow you to grind the coffee finely enough to get the most out of the freshly ground espresso – to extract the oils and aromatics to the fullest degree. It does take time and some degree of expertise to get the best out of them, although, the end result is worth it.

Freshness is a key pre-requisite for great coffee. It’s when you actually grind your own beans and make the coffee immediately afterwards, that you get the best of the tastes and aromas that a well-roasted bean can reveal. When it comes to beans, generally a week, to a maximum of 10 days is seen as their shelf life, once roasted. Most roasters recommend keeping your coffee beans in a sealed pack, in a cool environment.

Note: This listing is by no means complete, there are many more machines on the market and we will be amending these reviews and adding new ones as information comes to hand. Prices are indicative only, there may be price variations between distributors.

The First of our Series, Profiling the Outstanding Figures of the Coffee World

Coffee ‘cupping’ is the tasting of coffee to uncover the coffee’s unique profile. And in the rarified world of cupping, there are few who can rival Ken Davids for experience or expertise. Originally an academic and writer, Ken Davids has grown to be recognized as one of the coffee world’s pre-eminent figures. He has a consultancy business in the US and a number of highly regarded books on coffee to his credit. He is also a sought-after speaker at coffee conferences and seminars worldwide.

 Crema: For many years you were an academic – the dean of a large art and design college and a tenured Professor. What prompted your change from academic pursuits to coffee?

 KD: For me, being wrapped up purely in a teaching environment has always seemed a bit too removed from the practical excitement of business. But combining the business of consulting with the contemplation of writing and reviewing is the perfect balance, particularly when the subject is as absorbing as coffee. I enjoy the struggle of honorably combining ideas, words and cultural judgments with the most primitive of acts, smelling and tasting something.

 Crema: When did you write your first coffee book?

 KD: I first published Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing & Enjoying back in 1975 – it was something of a break-through book. Then, after specialty coffee started to take off in the US about twenty years ago, I published two more books (Espresso: Ultimate Coffee and Home Coffee Roasting: Romance & Revival), started reviewing coffees, and began my consulting business. In the process I gradually stopped being an academic and started being a full-time coffee guy.

 Crema: What do you find most interesting in the world of coffee?

 KD: Coffee arguably is the most complex of all commonly consumed beverages and the most challenging to master and understand. Many more substances contribute to the aroma and flavor of coffee than contribute to the aroma and flavor of wine, for example. And coffee is a much more global and interactive beverage than wine. A good wine changes only gradually once it is bottled, whereas coffee is first created and then completely transformed by four different parties at four different points in its journey from seed to cup. First someone chooses which seeds to plant where and nurtures the trees, then someone harvests the coffee and performs the tremendously expressive and crucial acts of fruit removal and drying, then someone else again roasts it, and finally someone, often the consumer, brews it. Coffee continues to transform even after brewing, as it cools.

 Crema: What were some of your most interesting experiences travelling for coffee?

 KD: Certainly the most transformative experience was meeting my future wife Iara in Brazil. Beyond that, I certainly have had my share of coffee experiences both exotic and moving. One of the most memorable was visiting the original port of Mocha or Al Mukhā in Yemen. As most coffee lovers know, all of the commercially traded coffee in the world was grown in Yemen and the majority of it shipped through the port of Al Mukhā for over 150 years, between around 1600 and 1750

If I had to pick a second experience it would be sitting in on my first genuine village coffee ceremony in Ethiopia. The depth of continuous and indigenous coffee culture in Ethiopia is incredibly dramatic, dignified and fluent. And, despite the poverty of the villagers, the Yirgacheffe region in Ethiopia is almost Eden-like in its intimate, rolling green fecundity and tidy gardens of interplanted coffee and food and fruit trees. But I have had great moments everywhere in the coffee world. Being greeted by mountain villagers in Papua New Guinea with their extravagant and inventive sculptured poles and banners and feathered costumes would rank up near the top as well. 

 Crema: What is the most important trend going on in the world of coffee today, in your view?

 KD: Simply the explosion of knowledge and the globalization of that knowledge. Although we are at the very beginning of the development of coffee as a genuine specialty beverage with a knowledge base comparable to wine, we are at least sneaking up on that goal. Until recently all of the research money for coffee seemed to go into either increasing commodity yield and commodity consistency at origin or saving pennies on commodity roasting and packaging, but now at least some of those resources are being directed at achieving genuine product differentiation through botanical variety and processing nuance. Eventually we may begin to understand how to create not only great coffees, but distinctive coffees that reflect the individual tastes of a new generation of growers, exporters, roasters and aficionado consumers.

Crema: What keeps you going?

 KD: All of the above. Everything about coffee, from the caffeine to the challenge of keeping up with new technical developments, tends to keep me feeling young.

This is an edited extract - you can read the complete interview to be published in our next issue of Crema Magazine, available in December.

Considering about 90% of espresso coffee in Australia is taken with milk, it’s no wonder that milk texturing [or ‘steaming'] is such an important part of the coffee-making process.  According to Paul, it’s all about how we’re releasing the steam onto the surface of the milk.

There are effectively two phases in steaming – firstly the texturing the milk, and secondly, heating the milk to the correct temperature.

Start with fresh, cold milk (never re-heat your milk); clean jug always helps. Pour the milk to a level approximately half-way in the jug – gives you greater control – stops the milk bubbling out of the jug, and gives you the ability to ‘roll’ the milk.

Rest the spout of the milk jug up against the steam arm, tilt the jug on a slight angle, which helps to promote the vortex  (getting the milk to spiral), then place your hand on the side of the jug and lower gradually to the point where the tip of the steam wand is just under the surface.

Once you’ve created what you need, bring the milk up to temperature (between 60 – 65 degrees) and turn the steam off. Note that it’s important to keep the steam head underneath the surface during the whole process. Also note the degree to which you lower the jug depends upon the type of drink you’re trying to create…if you’re making a cappuccino you continue to lower the jug further than if you’re making a flat white (see note 3 below)

Wipe the steam arm, then bang the jug on the bench (to collapse any surface air bubbles). Roll the milk right up to the point at which you pour your drink – otherwise the milk and foam separate…so, rolling the milk – to fold the milk and foam together as one – creating an acrylic-like velvet texture.

Rotate the jug in a circular motion, then rest the spout of the milk jug up against the rim of the cup and pour evenly and consistently into the centre.

Note that timing is important in this process – you need to be creating espresso while you’re texturing milk, so that both processes should finish around the same time, and remember you’ll ideally be rolling the milk right up until the moment you’re about to pour.

Further Notes

Always purge the steam wand beforehand, releasing any condensation that’s built up also important to position the nozzle of the steam arm about a centimetre away from the edge of the jug – i.e. it shouldn’t be resting right up against the side of the jug.

The trick to getting a rich dense texture is to get a smaller quality of air bubble, which is why we lower the jug slowly. If you lower it too quickly, you get a larger air bubble, creating a fluffier, Mt Everest-style foam.

Part of the skill lies in creating the right amount of milk that you need for the particular type of drink; and creating the specific amount of foam that you need for that particular drink – i.e. you need more foam for a cappuccino than a flat white…and remember it’s important to ‘roll’ the milk right up until the moment you’re about to pour, and then pour in one steady, even motion.

Lastly, note that the quality of the steam is really important – you need a steady flow of steam and for the best results a dryer steam is preferred. Also, the diameter of the outlet (steaming holes) is important – if you’ve got too many, or if they’re too wide you get a poorer quality of steam. Lastly, with respect to the jug, it’s preferable to have one with a nice, open curved-lip spout.

I am very lucky that in my work as an educator I often get the opportunity to associate with people already active in the coffee industry, as well as people who are so enthusiastic about coffee that they are setting up a mini espresso bar at home. Unfortunately for both of these groups they often overlook or misunderstand the importance of the grinder in the whole equation of making a cup of coffee.

The grinder is arguably the most fundamental piece of equipment in any coffee brewing situation. Why? Grinders allow for the freshest coffee possible in brewing, as well as controlling the extraction of flavour and soluble materials from the beans.

True freshness in coffee can only be achieved by ‘grinding on demand’ – grind what you need immediately before you use it. The grinder intricately controls the rate at which coffee and water come together to create the magic elixir in any brewing method – plunger, filter, stovetop or espresso. The milling of coffee beans between two blades allows for the breakdown of cell walls and for hot water to mix with the soluble materials in coffee. The reason that the grinder is so important in this mix is it controls the individual size of each coffee particle, and thus, how much time and surface area are exposed to the hot water. The scale of grind [commonly referred to as coarse to fine] is usually reflective of the amount of time coffee and water are meant to be in contact.

For a plunger, where coffee and water are in contact for 3-4 minutes, the grind should be coarse. For a filter or stovetop espresso, the water and coffee are in contact for 1-2 minutes, the grind is usually medium. For espresso, where the coffee and water are in contact only for 20-30 seconds, the grind is even finer, but you also need to take into consideration the other variables of dose, tamp and environment. Ground coffee is very sensitive to weather – particularly to heat and humidity and may swell, expand or shrink in as little as 10 minutes from when it is ground to when it is used. This means that a barista – either at home or in a commercial environment – needs to constantly and vigilantly observe and adjust a grinder up to 10 times a day. It also means that the barista needs to understand how all these variables interact for every coffee that is extracted.

It is not necessarily easy to learn about grinders and grinding coffee in relation to espresso, which is why I believe in many commercial environments some coffee companies choose not to educate their customers on how to use a grinder. It takes many sessions, practical demonstrations and then practice on the part of the student to really understand.

Instead, café operators are taught not to touch the grinder, and that someone will come and visit every so often to ‘fix it’ for them. The result of this in terms of espresso brewing is a less than satisfactory cup and missed potential for a business, unless a sales rep is prepared to show up 10 times a day to observe and adjust the grinder!

In the home espresso and more generally, the home coffee brewing environment, a lack of education and understanding about the importance of grind and freshness has led to the trend of people buying pre-ground coffee in large quantities and putting it in the fridge or freezer. For home espresso users this usually leads to frustration that they cannot achieve what they usually get from a good café, or that their plunger or filter coffee isn’t quite right.

I often get asked by people when buying espresso equipment for home, what kind of machine is best in any give price range. The first thing I suggest is that no matter how they brew their coffee, if they’re serious enough to invest in machinery for home, then a good grinder is also a must. Otherwise too much is left to chance, and you’ll end up resenting your equipment – or even worse – leave it sitting at the top of the cupboard!

In the case of commercial coffee supply – unless a coffee supplier is willing to invest time and effort in showing a café operator how important a grinder is and furthermore how to use, adjust and understand it, then you’re better off looking elsewhere if you want a good cup of coffee.

Emily Oak is Senior Coffee Trainer at the Sydney Coffee Academy at Ryde TAFE and an industry consultant. Since 2004 she has held the positionof Hemisphere Coordinator for the Asia Pacific region for the WBC. Visit www.freshground.com.au