The other day I was preparing to go through the process of designing a new blend and I called my broker to request some samples. He said “I’ve got just the coffee for you! El Salvador Bourbon, she’s my new girlfriend!”  After introducing me to his new love I found myself to be a little confused as to why he had fallen so head over heels; I certainly didn’t share the same attraction. However, keen to find out why my broker had fallen so hard I decided to give her a second chance to leave an impression.
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By Christopher Short

Coffee aficionados love to discuss the elements that make for their perfect cup. Factors often mentioned are their favorite brand of coffee beans, the proportion of arabica to robusta beans, the type of roast and single versus double boiler espresso machines, just to name a few. Interestingly, one issue only occasionally considered is that of water quality. This is odd given that water constitutes 95% of an espresso.

The reason it is not top of the list is probably because few really know what attributes they should be looking for in water and they generally have little choice in the matter. For most of us, it just arrives, normally out of the tap. The reason we should be concerned about water quality is that it does affect the taste of your coffee and it has a significant effect on brewing equipment performance and reliability in many regions. (more…)

We asked Russell Beard, from The Source Espresso Bar in Sydney, which coffee he’s excited about right now and to tell us a bit about it – here is what he had to say…. 

Q. Favourite bean right now and why?

Guatemalan COE Lot# 22 Finca La Perla (only 16 bags produced).
It was a Cup of Excellence (COE) finalist coffee from Guatemala – we were in Tokyo at the SCAJ and this coffee was on the table. When we brewed it (pour over) it had a cloudy apple juice appearance. We tasted it & all just looked at each other and….Wow! A special moment. I was hooked! So much so that we will be getting more coffee from this farm in the coming weeks/months.

La Perla means “Sleeping Woman” in Xamac, a Mayan language used in the Ixil Triangle, where the farm is located, some 38 kilometers northeast of Chajul, in the province of El Quiché. The farm produces Catuaí and Bourbon between 3000 and 6500 feet. Soil is loose, clayey and sandy over a limestone base. Producing quality coffee is very important to the owners of La Perla. They pay attention to detail – from harvesting at the exact moment to wet milling and drying the beans. This is evident in the fact that they have been finalists in the Cup of Excellence program in 2001, 2002, 2006 & 2008.

The lovely thing about the COE program is that the farmer is celebrated and receives the accolade & thus benefits financially; which in turn lays the platform for more interesting and exquisite coffee’s for the future….watch this space!

Q. How is it best appreciated?

I experienced this coffee as pour over /filter & drip. I wouldn’t roast this coffee too dark, as this would take away some of the delicate nuances inherent in this lovely bean.

Q. Flavour/cup profile?

The coffee was clean (as expected of a COE winning coffee) with beautiful apple acidity, nice heavy viscosity in the mouth, just beautifully sweet like honey. Once brewed it’s appearance was almost tea-like or like a cloudy apple juice.  

The Coffee

Farm: La Perla Y Anexos  Farmer: Finca La Perla Y Anexos
City: Chaju  Region: El Quiche  Country: Guatemala
Variety: Caturra  Type of shade trees: Inga  Harvest: October to May
Processing System: Sun and Wet Mill
Climatic Conditions: Average temperature: 18°C, Annual rainfall: 5000mm, Relative humidity: 75%
Type of soil: Loamy (balance of clay, sand and limestone)

Note: The Cup of Excellence is the most esteemed award given out for top coffees. These awards come from a strict competition that selects the very best coffee produced in that country for that particular year. These winning coffees are chosen by a select group of national and international cuppers and are cupped at least five different times during the competition process. Only coffees that continuously score high enough are allowed to move forward in the competition. The final winners are awarded the prestigious Cup of Excellence® and sold to the highest bidder during an internet auction.

It has many guises…espresso, cappuccino, café latte, macchiato, ristretto, doppio, flat white – that bitter sweet pleasure which is a way of life for so many of us. Sure, the active ingredient caffeine is found in other beverages, such as tea and soft drinks, but there’s only one true pure form: coffee.

But there is an art to making an espresso and all its variations. Even that simple long black demands respect for the espresso machine, and attention to the packing of the ground coffee beans. Without that ‘rat’s tail’ spiralling into the demitasse, your coffee is going to be sub-standard.

Seven steps to the perfect home espresso

Step 1 – Select your favourite coffee blend. You can either use pre-ground coffee or grind your own just before you make your espresso. If you are using pre-ground, make sure it is freshly opened and espresso blend [not filter]. If you prefer, as we do, to grind your own, make sure it is finely ground.

Ensure your espresso equipment is clean and hot, this includes the filter holder and filter basket, where your coffee grounds go. Preheat your cups – espresso cups should be approx 60ml capacity, cappuccino cups about 200ml capacity.

Step 2 – Place coffee grounds into the filter basket using a spoon or preferably a coffee scoop. You must place the right amount of coffee in the basket in order to get a good, strong espresso – one scoop in the smaller (one cup) basket; two scoops in the bigger basket (two cup) one.

Step 3 – Level the coffee in the basket and tamp (compress) the grounds. This will slow the flow of the water through the coffee, so that it can pick up all the flavour (oils & aromas) from the grounds. Check your machine instruction guide as to how hard or soft you should tamp.

Step 4 – Ensure the rim of the filter holder is clean before inserting it into the machine. Activate the water to flush  out any grounds from the inside of the machine.

Step 5 – Insert the filter holder into the machine. Immediately place warm cups underneath and start the flow of water through the coffee. The extracted coffee should pour in a fine stream (the proverbial ‘rat’s tail’).

Step 6 – The result should be 30ml of espresso (in around 25 seconds) with a 2mm golden, hazelnut-coloured crema on top. (The crema is an important indicator of the quality of your espresso.) and…Taste! 

Note: If you get little crema, make sure your coffee is fresh for a start. Try again making sure you have the right amount of coffee, the right tamping pressure and that your machine has been properly warmed up. You may need to experiment with different grinds (particle sizes) – remember you typically need a very fine grind for espresso coffee. As a general rule with domestic espresso machines, make your espresso before preparing the milk.

Step 7 – Steaming your milk. Place fresh, cold milk in a small stainless steel jug (fill between a third and one half of the jug). Activate the steam button so that your espresso machine increases in temperature to produce steam. Once the ‘Ready’ light on your machine goes on, turn the steam on and off to expel any water.

Place the tip of the spout just (about half a centimetre) under the surface of the milk and positioned near the centre of the jug. Turn on the steam wand to full power. You should see and hear air being drawn into the milk, creating a whirlpool effect, making it foamy. When the milk reaches 65°C turn off the steam and wipe the steam wand clean.

Pour the steamed milk to produce the drink of your choice and enjoy!

The ultimate, especially for the aficionado, is the high-quality manual machine. Typically built from the highest quality components (eg copper boiler) they are the closest many of us will get to the commercial machine we see in our favourite café. Why? Because they have the oomph to pump water through coffee beans ground finely enough to make a truly great espresso. But remember these machines must be warmed up properly to make the most of their high quality componentry – you can’t just flick the switch to make a quick coffee before you rush out the door to work. By the way, once you’ve browsed through this list of great machines, don’t forget to check out the couple of extra important notes in the paragraphs below!

THE MACHINES

Unico Splendor

The Splendor features an E61 type group with lever action. It has a 1.3 litre copper boiler and a 3 litre water reservoir but can also be connected to mains supply. The Splendor has a 90 degree swiveling, commercial size steam arm with a 2 hole angled steam tip, which gives excellent steaming control. Both the body and chassis are stainless steel and build quality and standard of finish are excellent. With its 50’s/early 60’s retro styling (with coloured plexiglass side panels) this is a beautiful machine. RRP: $2,550.00. For more information call Cosmorex Coffee Tel: (02) 6280 7511.

Vibiemme

The Domobar Super from Vibiemme is a stunning prestige machine. Vibiemme was founded over 25 years ago by Carlo Earnesto Valente, the founder of Faema and the E61 group head. With these exceptional credentials, the Domobar Super offers excellent heat characteristics resulting in superb coffee with every pour and the superior boiler capacity enables the high volume of steam required for optimum texturising of milk for detailed latte art. Available in gloss black or stainless steel finish. RRP from $2,399 for the Domobar Super and from $2,999 for the Domobar Super Electronica. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

ECM Giotto Premium

Featuring professional quality components, this is a beautiful unit. Thermal stability is the key to making an excellent espresso, and the Giotto has a nickel-plated copper boiler giving excellent heat retention and stable heat transfer to the heat exchanger. The Giotto produces an excellent crema with great steaming ability, and would be a credit to any barista’s kitchen. RRP $2,550. For more information call ECA on 1300 326 326 or visit www.espressocompany.com.au.

Diamond Italia

Manufactured in Milan, the ‘Italia’ is certainly stunning with it’s retro styling. It has a full stainless steel chassis but with chromed, heat resistant plastic side panels. It features a 1.8ltr copper boiler, anti-burn steam wand, professional E61 group head and removable 3ltr water tank and drip tray. RRP: $2,400.00. For more information call Diamond Services on 1300 302 522 or visit www.myitalia.com.au.

Isomac Mondiale

Based in Milan, the Isomac is another well-established line of semi-commercial units. With its complete stainless steel construction, 2 litre tank and a 2.2 litre boiler, it is designed to deliver the perfect espresso every time. The funky Mondiale is the latest in a line of excellent domestic machines with an impeccable pedigree. RRP: $2,650.00.

Expobar Barista Minore

Also known as the ‘Brewtus’ this machine has been extremely popular in the United States.  Made in Spain, the Barista Minore uses the ever-popular E61 group-head and has a dual boiler system (both with auto refill) with powerful heating elements. It’s a simple-enough looking machine, but it’s the double boilers which stand out. Along with digital temperature control of the coffee group, they give excellent temperature stability.  Combined with a slightly lower entry-price, this makes the Expobar a machine that’s definitely worth looking at. RRP: $2,300.00.

La Marzocco GS/3

Following on the famous La Marzocco name for commercial espresso machines, comes the single group GS/3. This quasi manual/automatic machine, combines the power of a commercial machine with the ease of multi-function touch-pad controls and is certainly a beautiful looking piece of equipment. However, it is a step up in price, retailing for around $7,000 putting it out of the league for many ‘prosumers’ – and most would say it is simply not necessary to pay that much. For more information contact Espresso Equipment Specialists Australia Pty Ltd.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Remember, for machines at this level you’re going to have to buy a grinder as well – a good one will set you back at least $500 – but the reason these machines make such great quality espresso is that they allow you to grind the coffee finely enough to get the most out of the freshly ground espresso – to extract the oils and aromatics to the fullest degree. It does take time and some degree of expertise to get the best out of them, although, the end result is worth it.

Freshness is a key pre-requisite for great coffee. It’s when you actually grind your own beans and make the coffee immediately afterwards, that you get the best of the tastes and aromas that a well-roasted bean can reveal. When it comes to beans, generally a week, to a maximum of 10 days is seen as their shelf life, once roasted. Most roasters recommend keeping your coffee beans in a sealed pack, in a cool environment.

Note: This listing is by no means complete, there are many more machines on the market and we will be amending these reviews and adding new ones as information comes to hand. Prices are indicative only, there may be price variations between distributors.

The First of our Series, Profiling the Outstanding Figures of the Coffee World

Coffee ‘cupping’ is the tasting of coffee to uncover the coffee’s unique profile. And in the rarified world of cupping, there are few who can rival Ken Davids for experience or expertise. Originally an academic and writer, Ken Davids has grown to be recognized as one of the coffee world’s pre-eminent figures. He has a consultancy business in the US and a number of highly regarded books on coffee to his credit. He is also a sought-after speaker at coffee conferences and seminars worldwide. (more…)

By Rob Stewart

I am often asked how I became a coffee roaster and I tell them that it was pure opportunity; but, if I really think about it, my passion blossomed the day I wrapped my lips around a cup of Sumatran Mandheling.

I had started a new barista gig with a boutique coffee roaster, but I was really just working to pay the rent while I went to uni. I didn’t care much about coffee until the day I had to acquaint myself with the single origins the roaster sold. So, my boss and I racked up some espressos and BANG! My palate went into overdrive! (more…)

EDITORIAL
21st August 2008

As you may know, this magazine is a supporter of the concept of fairly-traded coffee, but it’s interesting to see how the Fairtrade organization (run under the auspices of Oxfam aid organization) has become proprietary about the use of the ‘fair trade’ terminology.

Several newspapers have reported a recent spat between McDonalds, which uses Rainbow Alliance coffee [www.rainforest-alliance.org], and the Fairtrade Organization. It centres around the use of the word ‘fair’. The problem is that McDonalds have recently been running TV commercials showing South American coffee farmers, and using the words ‘a fair deal for workers’ in their script.

Click here to go directly to this topic on the Crema Forum to share your opinion and read what others have had to say, or/ (more…)

By Rob Stewart

Algebra, trigonometry and calculus caused me many headaches at school and I have India to thank for that, they invented it.  We can also thank them for snakes and ladders, chess and the art of navigation. So too can we applaud India for their efforts in coffee as they produce arguably the best Robusta and some of the very finest A-grade Arabica’s in the world; yet, it is Monsoon Malabar that has become the accidental hero of Indian coffee. (more…)

By Emily Oak

The coffee we know and love as a golden or dark brown aromatic bean, starts off very differently. For coffee, from crop to cup, there is quite a complex journey and every step will affect its final flavour.

The coffee bean as we know it, is actually the seed of a cherry which grows on the tall bushy coffee tree, with the two main species being Arabica and Robusta. Arabica makes up a large percentage of the world consumption – about 70% while the more gutsy Robusta is most commonly used as a booster in some espresso blends or for making instant coffee.To get from the cherry on the tree to the bean ready for grinding, there are a number of steps that need to occur.

The first is ‘processing’ – whereby the outer layers of the cherry are removed to reveal the bean or seed inside. There are four layers that need to be removed – the skin, the flesh, the parchment and the silverskin. The way that these outer layers are removed greatly affects the flavour of the bean as the sugars can be either transferred into or out of the bean. (more…)